Neil Cotty said:
> Hi all,
<<BIG SNIP>>
> After refitting the head, I now have the dreaded coolant seepage
> between 2&3 cyl.
To which Jerry Causey replies:
John Twist (University Motors) has a fix for the "weeping cylinder head"
which I have used, and which really does work. You can buy his book, or
view several of his tech tips at:
http://www.team.net/www/mg/tech/twist/jt-tech1.html
and
http://www.team.net/www/mg/tech/twist/jt-tech2.html
or read his words on just the weep fix (quoted from -tech2.html) below:
MGB WEEPING CYLINDER HEAD: The rule is, all rebuilt B series
engines weep between the block and head, between the 2nd and 3rd
spark plug. Some actually piss. To remedy this problem: That center
exposed head stud, RH side, between #2 and #3 is the guide stud -- the
hole in the head is 3/8 whereas the other holes are 7/16. Clean out the
stud hole in the head with a 3/8 drill. Polish that stud, at least. Ensure a
chamfer at the threaded hole in the block. Chase the threads on the stud,
nut, and block (3/8-18 and 3/8-24). Ensure the head is planed to
0.001." Ensure that the top of the block is cleaned to a SMOOTH
finish. Fit the studs back into the block with only about 5 lb-ft torque.
Place a THIN film of clear silicone, RTV, sealant on the RH side of the
head gasket. Into that EXTREMELY THIN film, place two strands of
stranded, flexible wire about six inches long, twisted together, along the
outboard side of the gasket, between its edge and the water jacket holes
so that the thickness of the head gasket is effectively increased by
several thousandths. Goodbye leaks. [note: Both sides of the gasket,
and REALLY thin wire. I've never measured -- but I know what you
mean, there is a great difference between stranded wire. ]
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