> I lost mine at 70mph on the highway with no warning, but on my '71 there
> is a driveshaft loop type thing, between the battery boxes that won't
> allow the shaft to hit the ground regardless of which end breaks.
Yes, my '69 has that too, which is why I suggested the possibility of
polevaulting or chewing the tunnel was not so great.
Other notes about changing the driveshaft (original poster- had them checked
yet?). On mine I was able to replace the 4 rear flange fixing bolts with 4
new grade 8 bolts, nuts and lockwashers. On the front (transmission) end
the bolt heads have a crescent shaped piece removed which allows them to sit
tight against the transmission output shaft. The bolts seemed to be too
long to remove, so I had to re-use them (so be careful taking them off and
clean the threads before putting them back on).
Finally, there's not much room under there, and you're working on your back
with your arms in the air, so expect muscular aches and pains the next day!
It's also useful to have an assistant to apply and release the handbrake,
which holds the driveshaft still whilst you get the bolts on and off, and
then lets it turn for you to get the next one. Actually I found it easier
for my assistant to turn the rear wheels to turn the driveshaft for me.
Andy
PS When I took the old driveshaft off I had this inexplicable urge to tow my
MG somewhere... =;^)
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