Scott - I am sure your feelings are quire normal for an MG owner, and if you
are not sitting in the car going through the gears with a 'Brrrmmm, brrmmm'
I would be surprised.
The tach is electronic, so check you are getting a good 12v on the green
(fused ignition) and a switched 12v on the white/blue as the points open and
close. If those are OK give the front of the tach a sharp rap with a
knuckle while the engine is running, sometimes the needle can mechanically
stick in the home position. Beyond that it looks internal and electronic.
On your car the vacuum take-off should be on the manifold but precisely
where I cannot say. Before you go opening it up check the vacuum capsule is
OK by connecting a pipe to it and sucking on it. With the distributor cap
off you should see the base-plate move clockwise as you suck and back again
as you release. You should not be able to continually suck air, if you can
the diaphragm is punchtured and the capsule must be replaced. Quite
expensive for what it is, I am afraid. With the engine running sucking on
the pipe should noticeably increase engine rpms. Without vacuum advance you
may not get it through emissions.
Good luck,
PaulH.
http://freespace.virgin.net/paul.hunt1/
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott/Michelle <mcjsr@talstar.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: 13 July 1999 23:12
>... A couple of questions, the vac advance isn't operable right now, it
seems
>that DPO has actually sealed it off, as well as the heater.
>I want this car to run like as new as possible, is the vac advance a hard
>system to work on? Is the tach more than likely an electrical problem??
>Where do I start to trouble shoot for the tach??
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