Quad Four installation: Any installation would require a new rear engine
plate or some form of adapter to mate up with the transmission, new motor
mounts, modified exhaust for clearance, and maby some creative body work for
the induction system or hood bulges (overhead engines are taller than a push
rod usually). I dont see why a Quad 4 would be any more complicated except
that there is much more experience these days with the V8 installation. In
fact all things being equal I would think that the quad 4 would be easier as
it is smaller and lighter than the V8....but there are pleanty of books and
lots of information that surely make the V8 a simpler task.
It shouldnt matter whether the engine is for a front wheel drive or mid
engine (a mid engine is a front wheel drive engine/trans located behind the
driver and in front of the rear wheels that don't steer) as the engine is
merely bolted to the transmission. In some cases you might have to
fabricate a new oil pan though, as they can be shared. Also odd
engine/trans like the SAAB would be real bad as they are just really
different.
If you are mechanically inclined and not afraid to experiment any engine
swap is possible.
PArking brake binding: Replace the parking brake lever cable (from the
tranny tunnel by the shifter underneath the car, to the rear axle bracket).
With this cable removed make sure the remaining system is free and not
binding. When you install the new cable adjust it so that you get full
engagement before it gets to the last click. (I like mine to have at least
3 "spare" clicks). You should not have to remove the seats, unless after
you take the cable out you find that the lever is still unexplicably
binding. Rust is known to get everywhere...
Long term engine rebuilds: No problem. Just keep it clean and buy a case of
WD-40 to spray on all the parts to keep them from rusting after maching work
is done.
Plastic disentigration: some switches you can rebuild with donor
switches...but usually you just have ot replace them. If they arnt brittle
but only faded or have a light surface that is crumbly you can scrape off
the bad and paint them or apply rubber/plastic protectorant. I have even
gone so far as to mold new plastic shells using paint can tops and an oven.
Thermostat housing removal: Use a rubber mallet and beat on it. If you get
desperate you can GENTLY use a screwdriver or other such wedge between the
block and the housing.
Front springs: I wouldnt stretch them. This effectively deforms the spring
in a bad and unreliable way (its too hard to do it consistantly without
localised plastic deformation). You may get a spring rate you like and a
ride height, but you have greatly increased your chances of breaking a
spring dpwn the road, and that is real bad. If your springs are a little
short, but have the spring rate you want, just buy some shims to put under
the spring and raise your ride height.
Have you measure the spring rate on the "Short" springs? Simply measuring
the free coils and diameter will only give you a starting point. To really
know stack some weight on it and measure the dreflection.
I wish I could drive my car, as all this tech talk is geting me way to
excited....
Drew
68 MGB on blocks with no trunk floor awaiting parts.....sigh...
|