mgs
[Top] [All Lists]

RE: Carpet, once again

To: "Mg List (E-mail)" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Carpet, once again
From: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 14:40:45 -0700
I've done a car (non-LBC) this way, and can vouch that it works and is 
inexpensive. But, a few comments...

1. If you don't have the old carpet pieces for patterns, I think it would 
take more than an hour or two to custom-fit all the pieces (the B 
roadster has about a dozen). It took me several hours to install a 
(supposedly) fitted kit in my B.

2. I personally am a lot happier with my carpet attached with snaps (even 
the tunnel), rather than cement (except for the rear wheel arches). The 
first time you get water in the car, you'll see what I mean. Not to 
mention if you have to monkey with the shift linkage or replace the 
back-up light switch.

My 2¢...



Alan Lott had this to say:

>Hi dan,
>
>I've carpeted my '71 B twice (choice, not necessity). If you don't care
>about "bound edges" and want to be incredibly cost conscious, just buy the
>carpet by the linear foot (LF). Decent carpet can be had for about $3.00 a
>LF from a home improvement warehouse. The first time I did the car, I used 6
>LF, I think. Anyway the carpet cost me under $20 and took about an hour to
>install (not counting the seat removal/install time). the second time, the
>carpet cost me about $24 and took about the same amount of time. what I
>learned between time one and time two was that the carpet needs to have a
>"backing" - preferrably rubber or closed-cel foam, and that they sell some
>HVAC (airconditioning) ductwork insullation that is foil on both sides with
>plastic air bubbles sanwiched in between ($14 a roll and it will easily do
>one car). The insulation is about 3/8 of an inch thick and does a miraculous
>job at reducing cockpit temp and even noise (to a degree). I covered all
>surfaces I could (floor pans, driveshaft tunnel, footwells, etc) before
>carpeting. I also used contact cement to install everything. Total cost for
>my last job was about $45 dollars (c-cement, insul, carpet) and took about 2
>hours. After I did it the first time and the end result was almost perfect
>(and cost me less than $20), wondering about how to handle the new carpeting
>was a "no-brainer". Let me know if you need any more information.
>
>Good luck,
>
>~alan
>'71B
>
>
>Reply to:
>Alan Lott
>GTA, Auburn Univeristy
>Department of Rehabilitation and Special Education
>
>My Office-     (334) 844-2092
>Department-    (334) 844-5943
>Fax-           (334) 844-2080
>
> -----Original Message-----
>From:  owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]  On Behalf
>Of Dan Pockrus
>Sent:  Wednesday, July 07, 1999 12:53 PM
>To:    'MG list'
>Subject:       Carpet, once again
>
>
>       Despite my assertion that Loyal Son should leave the Stainless Steel
>that is his floorpan bare and naked for the world to see, he has decided to
>cover it with carpet. Now I know this has gone around a time or two, but we
>changed e-mail servers here a couple of months ago and I lost all of my
>retained messages on the subject.
>       We're not talking concours here - this is a high school driver, so
>I'd rate durability above looks. Since he's buying it, cost is also a major
>consideration. I'd like to gather as many options as possible before forming
>my own. Fire away!
>
>Dan Pockrus
>'74B in faded Citron
>
>


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
Runs great, 
looks particularly bad since some SUV clown backed into it.
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>