Well, the shims take up slack but can't fully compensate for a worn rack.
Typically, the rack is worn more in the middle, and less at the ends. So
if you shim it for tightness at the center, you hit massive resistance at
the extremes. Been there (on my B), bought a new rack and love it.
I don't know about the access issue in the Midget (probably not good),
but isn't it going to be a little difficult evaluating steering "feel"
with the car immobilized? I say, try the shims now, and if it doesn't
work out (as I suspect), you can replace the rack while the engine's out.
My 2 cents...
Michael Nadeau had this to say:
>Hi, I'm new to the list. Lots of helpful tips about MGB's. Last year I
>finished a complete restoration of a "69" roadster. It took me almost a
>year and a half to get it back together. Well worth the wait. My
>question involves my uncle's "68" midget. I'm going to be replacing the
>clutch in a couple of weeks and his steering is awful. Lots of play. I
>heard from someone that it's possible to shim the rack to take some of
>the play out. Figured with the motor out it would be the best time to do
>something about it.Any suggestions would be great.
>
>Mike Nadeau
>
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
Runs great,
looks particularly bad since some SUV clown backed into it.
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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