I would have to agree with Dan. If the bleeders are stuck, you may be able
to get usable brakes by loosening the brake line, but the bleed screw is at
the top of the cylinder to get all the air out. If the bleeders are that
badly rusted in place, you would probably need to rebuild the cylinders. For
the amount of time and work involved, it's much better to replace brake
cylinders. Stay on the safe side.
Allen Hefner
'77 midget
'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
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In a message dated 5/23/99 8:03:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
danray@bluegrass.net writes:
<< Doesn't seem like that would get the air out of the wheel cylinders....and
that just means that the wheel cylinders are old....hmm...
Why not just redo the rears and have it done? We're talking about $50 in
parts here. Seems to me if the bleeders are that siezed the rubber on the
other side of that brake backing plate couldn't be much better. Food for
thought?
Just MHO.
Dan
73 B
-----Original Message-----
From: BobMGT@aol.com <BobMGT@aol.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, May 23, 1999 6:45 PM
Subject: Stuck Bleeder Screws on Rear Brakes
>I found the bleeder screws on the rear brakes of my '71 B hopelessly stuck.
>So I bleed the rears by loosening the fittings on the brake line at the
>wheels. Is this an acceptable alternative? The pedal feels fine.
>
>Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s) >>
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