Don't give up Mike. It may be a head gasket. Gas and spark don't run.
Head gaskets are not a big deal on a Midget or B. Just take your time,
If you have a Polaroid camera take pictures as you take everything apart.
And if you have a reassemble problem look at the pictures and use the shop
manual.Just take your time. Carl E.
Jurgen Hartwig wrote:
> Michael Graziano wrote:
>
> > Now she won't start. I'm getting spark, and gas, but not ignition. When I
> > try and turn it over, it turns a little then it's as if something catches
> > the engine and stops the cranking dead. (Maybe 80% of the time, spins
> > normally without ignition other times) Battery is in decent shape. And
> > every once in a while Poof... a big cloud (as in ALOT) of smoke out the
> > intake and what seems like other places as well, even out the valve cover.
> > Not sure of color (looks white), but smells of gas. ALso frequent
> > backfiring (constant little pings, and an occational louder one accompanied
> > by lots of black (not blue) smoke.
> >
>
> Check the timing. Make sure nothing is backwards, although you didn't
> specify if it was running fine before your suspension work. Check the
> points. IF they are pitted, replace them. Also, replace the
> condenser. Verify that you are getting regular spark. The backfiring
> is a hint that you might not have the timing correct (wires reversed),
> but one thing you mention is that you have to have the choke out. This
> would indicate that you are running lean. Lean running produces
> backfires. MAKE DARN SURE you do not have vacuum leaks. This is bad on
> carbed cars, and is very frequently a horrible and frequent problem on
> FI cars.
>
> > I thought maybe the timing chain, but the valves are moving when I crank it.
> > That's timing chain driven, correct? Carb seems to be in OK shape. No rips
> > in the piston gasket. Never found an intake leak.
> >
>
> Keep checking for intake leaks. If you cannot find any leaks, then
> proceed to a check and adjustment of the valves, timing, and then
> carbs. To find intake leaks, you can use most any flammable lubricant.
> WD-40 is fine. Some endorse propane. Others promote other fluids.
> Spray at all areas of the intake.
>
>
> > I REALLY have no idea what to do next. I'm afraid the whole intake
> > backfiring thing has been leading up to this. Maybe my valves are all
> > screwed up? I now keep the carb relatively rich, and the choke partly out
> > to keep the engine smooth. I was also not driving it too much until I had
> > time to solve the backfiring problem.
> >
>
> Unless your intake valve is open during the firing stroke (due to very
> bad valve adjustment), I don't see how you could be getting backfiring
> through intake, due to valve adjustment alone. This is screaming LEAN
> mixture. I don't think you mention what carbs you are running. If SUs,
> make sure your pistons are falling all the way down. Make sure you are
> getting plenty of fuel in there.
>
>
> > If I need to pull the head off this damm thing, what should I purchase
> > ahead of time (tools, parts) to do it? And what should I read other than
> > the Bentleys and Haynes as prep work? I would think I need a new gasket,
> > some sort of machinist's straightedge to check for warping, and if all
> > seems lost when I get it off, an elephant gun with a dozen or so rounds.
> >
>
> I wouldn't jump to that side of the fence yet, until you can rule out
> ignition and fuel. Until then you are shooting from the hip, and what
> you hit is random.
>
> If, however, you are very bored and have nothing else to do, for pulling
> the heads, you need a breaker bar, extension, and I believe either a
> 9/16" or 5/8" inch 6 point socket to remove the head bolts. You need to
> remove the exhaust from the head and free from the studs. Take the head
> to a machinist and let him do the checking. Ask around first. Some
> machinists couldn't find a straightedge, even if it hit them in the
> head. A good machinist is like a pot of gold. Again, don't rip the
> heads, unless you have good reason.
>
> > I getting QUITE frustrated at the rapidly deeper hole my car seems to be
> > climbing into. And I just don't have the know-how to pull it out.
> >
>
> Michael, when my dad gave me the '78 B about 5 years ago, I didn't know
> anything about cars. My expertise was limited to oil changes. Now,
> I've owned and maintained two MGBs, a Porsche 912E, and a Porsche 911 is
> in the works. These MGs have taught me so much and given me so much
> confidence. I tackle engine rebuilds, paint and body work, interior
> work, suspension work, and brake work with ease. It's not hard. It's
> fun. And if you do the work yourself, you'd be surprised at how cheap
> it really is, especially when you consider how much a new car costs
> these days. I've put about $5k in my '70 B, and it's carried me over
> 30k miles in the past two years. How's that for value. I'm selling it
> now, and if I get the $3k asking price, I'll have spent $2000 for all
> that fun and learning. Not a bad deal in my book. Especially given I
> would have been driving a Civic for that price.
>
>
> > Sorry to vent like this, but I seem to be at wits end here. WHat other
> > info should I be revealing and any suggestions on what I need to do next?
> >
>
> I've vented here at least 10 times, and someone always comes to my
> aide. I've replaced the top myself ( with help, of course), replaced
> the U-joints on my car (very tough job with no tools, BTW), and learned
> about ignition, all because of kind listers who stepped up and gave me
> advice. I salute all of you enthusiasts.
>
> Take care and keep yer chin up
>
> Jay
>
> --
> When you were born you cried
> And the world rejoiced.
> Live your life so in death you rejoice
> And the world cries.
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