I don't quite understand the problem with the brakes being too "hard". A
firm pedal is what is desired. A bleeding problem would give you a
"squishy" pedal, or one that travels too far down and then "pumps up"
with a second application. If you mean the brakes require too much
effort, or more than they did previously, then the booster would be the
thing to look at, since its purpose is to reduce pedal effort. This would
not have anything to do with bleeding. The booster is a vacuum device (at
least they generally are, I don't know particularly about the C) -- no
vacuum, no boost, so you have to run the engine (or have run it in the
recent past). Any leaks will, of course, ruin the effect. But your
mechanic should know this.
It *is* difficult to bleed the MG brakes properly, or at least tedious,
but again, your problem doesn't sound like it has to do with bleeding.
I say, have 'em check the booster. Good luck.
Mike Razor had this to say:
>Help!
>I can't get the brakes right, the professionals (the garage
>next door)
>can't get the brakes right. We have the repair manual and
>the brakes are still real hard. I have to assume they have
>bled the brakes correctly and that the rebuild has been done
>correctly as well.
>Can someone provide a tep-by-step on how to bled the brakes?
>
>Starting with:
>1. Put new brake parts on.
>2. Insert brake fluid.
>3. ..........
>Also, what else is there to look at? Boosters/servos redone,
>M/C redone.
>What little thing do we need to do to get them right?
>The garage said when they bled the brakes they are still very
>hard.
>HELP!
>
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
Runs great,
looks particularly bad since some SUV clown backed into it.
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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