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RE: Brake Switch

To: Rick Huber <rickhuber@home.com>
Subject: RE: Brake Switch
From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk@mossmotors.com>
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:38:06 -0700
Rick:

        The switch should not get hot.  The brake lights do draw a bit of
current, and if the switch has poor contacts the resistance would cause it
to get hot.  The current draw of the brake lights may be enough to slow down
the fuel pump, but I'm wondering.  If there is a short in the brake light
circuit, the switch would get hot and the fuel pump would slow down.
Disconnect the brake light leads in the trunk.  Then make sure that there is
no path to ground on the green/purple wire.  It's possible that the wire is
damaged under the car and touching the body.  

        If there is no apparent short, then the switch has high resistance
and is bad.


Kelvin.
65B
        Tuesday night replaced the headlight switch.  Thursday night
replaced the brake light switch.  Saturday was on the track.  Not bad for 10
years in outside storage.




> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Huber [mailto:rickhuber@home.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 4:57 AM
> To: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Brake Switch
> 
> 
> Fellow MG Enthusiasts,
> 
> A problem with the brake lights on my 75 B.  Intermittent working. 
> Seems to be a grounding problem, but now it seems like the switch is
> bad.  When I test the switch off the car with a multimeter, it looks
> good - no resistance - lots of resistance.  When I hoook the 
> switch back
> up, it works initially, then gets hot, then quits working.  
> My grounding
> problem clue is that when the switch energizes the brake lights, the
> fuel pump slows down.  I guess I'd be foolish to buy a new 
> switch before
> sorting out the grounding problem, right ?
> 
> Any ideas ?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rick Huber
> 
> '75 MGB V8 Daily Driver (although  carefully without brake lights )
> 

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