dresden@tiac.net wrote:
> I have some
> keys for the car, but none of them work, either the locks are all seized or
> they are the wrong keys (doubtful). Has anyone had any lasting success
> freeing up seized locks? How'd you do it? I'd rather not change them all.
> And also, so that I'll know I'm trying the right key, what keys are common?
> I mean, does one key open doors and trunk, and one for ignition, or
> ignition/doors, and then trunk, or what? I know this is probably in the
> owner's manual, but all I have is the Haynes. (The steering lock has been
> disabled, and right now the car is started by the switch pulled out from
> the back of the ignition lock...I didn't do it, honest). I have a long key,
> a short key that is twisted so as to be unusable, and two very small keys.
> The two larger keys are BL logo emblazoned, and the two small ones say
> "Wilmot Breeden". Any polite suggestions on where to put them?
Here's everything I know about B keys.
The trunk lock didn't change over the course of the 18 years B's were made. The
door locks were the same '65-'80. The glove box lock changed, but the key
didn't. The big change was in the ignition switch because later cars had
steering locks and much bigger ignition keys.
My very original '67B has two small keys. The one with the squarish head fits
the doors and the ignition. The one with the oval head fits the trunk lock and
glove box. Contrary to this, the locks are now sold in sets with door, glove
box and trunk locks that all use the same key.
If I actually remember correctly from 20 years ago, your car should have come
with two keys--a very large one with a BL logo (the originals had rubber heads
and the replacements were all metal), and a small key that fits everything
else. The Wilmot Breeden keys may be the original keys.
If the locks are frozen, the best thing to do is disassemble them, clean them
and re-assemble them. If you have the wrong ignition key, you can replace the
ignition switch, although they're designed to be difficult to remove. You may
want to get a Heritage certificate for your car to get the key number and order
the correct key. If you have the wrong little key, the locks that use the small
keys are very easy to re-key. Here's how.
After you remove the lock, to get the cylinder out, pry off the retaining clip
and drive out the pin. The cylinder will then come out. Put whatever key you
choose to use in the cylinder. As the key slides in, each tumbler is raised
until it's flush with the outside of the cylinder. Any tumbler that isn't flush
needs to be filed or replaced.
Since the key goes through the middle of the tumblers, it's the height of the
top part of the tumbler that determines if it's correct for that spot on the
key. There are about five different heights of tumblers. This makes a lot more
sense if you're looking at it.
If a tumbler is raised too high by its respective spot on the key, pull it out
with needlenose pliers and file the inside surface of the top of it. Don't lose
the little tiny spring. Press the tumbler back in until it pops back in.
Repeat removing, filing and replacing until it's flush with the key in.
If the tumbler is too low, it doesn't have enough depth to be raised by the key
and it needs to be replaced. It's handy to have a stash of junk locks for
this. Sometimes, one tumbler will be too high and another will be too low and
then they can be swapped. Re-assembly is the reverse.
Hope this makes sense and helps.
Denise Thorpe
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