When I replaced the master cylinder (mc) on my 69 B last year I found that by
removing the plastic reservoir that I was able to turn the body of the mc
enough, and by also pushing the back end of the mc through the square rubber
bung, that there was just enough wiggle room to get it in without removing
the pedal box. Before you actaully mount the cylinder replace the plastic
reservoir. Dont forget to remove any trace of brake fluid from the reservoir
first, or you'll have a mess. The PO had replaced the seals in the old mc,
but during the bleeding process it puked all over my daughters feet while she
was pumping (slowly) and holding the pedal as I was bleeding the brakes. I
got a rebuilt unit from Apple Hydraulics. They sleeve their rebuilds and I am
very pleased with it. BTW I used silicone fluid, and I have had no problems
whatever. I found, however, that it works best by very slowing adding fluid
and allowing said fluid to "flow" out of the bleed nipples (one at a time, of
course, starting at the furthest, etc.). A minimum of pumping was used and
that was done SLOWLY, avoiding air entrapment. This process has been
described before as the "case of beer" method. It is better described in many
previous postings. The major drawback is that it uses more fluid. I repeated
the bleeding process a week later (this was during my major rebuild project)
to allow any air to rise to the mc or the bleeders. The result is I have very
good pedal and no mushiness often attributed to the use of silicone fluid. I
did the same for the clutch. I found, in both cases, that rebuilding these
units was waste of time and new or rebuilt is the way to go. Hope this helps.
Cheers, Andy Blackley
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