>By gum... I think you've got it.
>
>What if the battery kill switch jiggled open? It wouldn't be all the
>current from the starter trying to get back to the battery through the
>stereo ground... but if the lights were on, that's about 6 amps right
>there. Plus whatever else was on
>
>Doesn't explain the ignition switch meltdown, but takes care of everything
>else.
>
>Whoever mentioned the idea of the low-amp fuse across the kill switch has
>my vote. Well, it won't prevent mysterious battery drains but will stop
>the drive-offs and the people-turning-the-lights-on.
>
You know, when I saw that suggestion it struck me that it is definitely
the way to go. Look at it this way: you run your separate ground for the
stereo and a few other items; and this time you put a fuse in it. One of
these days, you blow the fuse--what then? if you don't have a replacement
on you, it's no stereo, no trunk light, etc till you find one. If all you
do is bridge the kill switch with the low-amp fuse, and some turkey
fiddling where he shouldn't blows the fuse, it's no problem--when you do
turn on the kill switch, everything still works (except your station
presets, of course). And it's no rush to replace it in the middle of the
night when it's raining and you need to get the spare out of the boot.
So, apparently someone figured this out long ago...
...well, we catch on eventually.
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB
runs great, looks scabrous
mountain View CA
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