Lines should be flushed with denatured alcohol, maybe the writer used
rubbing alcohol or something else. By the time you get your system bled I
will bet that you will have gone through 2 quarts of fluid. This in
itself should flush out the system.
...Art
On Tue, 23 Mar 1999, Kulka, Matt
wrote:
> List,
>
> This was sent to me, but I didn't see it on the list - probably to save me
> the embarrassment of being publicly corrected. As a husband of many years
> and father of multiple teenagers, I'm pretty numb to both correction and
> embarrassment, but I appreciate the thought. I've removed the name of the
> sender in case he meant to maintain some privacy.
>
> It seems like information that bears sharing.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> In regards to flushing brake lines with alcohol, DO NOT do this unless you
> plan on replacing all the flexible brake lines from the hard lines to the
> wheels. I did it on my TR7/8 project a while back, after reading it
> somewhere, and it somehow caused my rubber lines to "swell" inside, to the
> point that nothing would pass through them. Had to replace all rubber
> lines! Since having used silicone based brake fluid, I am firmly convinced
> that it has no place in a sports car, little driven, or hard driven. If
> water does get into the closed brake system, they say it will collect at the
> lowest point in the system (the brake calipers or cylinders you just
> rebuilt. In a little-driven car, this will cause the calipers/cylinders to
> rust, in a hard-driven car, the water will boil, and cause a spooky
> "hard-soft-hard" type feeling pedal.
>
> Xxxxx
> 1980 TR7/8
> 1961 MGA II
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Kulka, Matt [SMTP:Matt.Kulka@hboc.com]
> > I'm guessing the purists will tell you to flush your brake lines with
> > alcohol and blow them out with forced air, then replace the rubber seals
> > at all four wheels...
>
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