I have been helping my son restore a 1955 Cheverolet and we have used some
of the POR 15 products on the frame and inner fenders etc. I was a bit
skeptical of the claims made, but last week we painted the inside of the
rear bumper bar with POR 15. The bumpers had been sandblasted as they are
going to be painted to match the body rather than chromed. Guidecoating and
sanding the piece revealed a dent in the bar that we had overlooked. I took
a BIG hammer (55 Chevy bumpers are HEAVY METAL) and smacked the dent out
from the back side. I was sure the paint would break and chip off. It
scuffed it up a bit, but the stuff is HARD. Don't know how it holds up for
the long run but seems pretty tuff. It is very slick when dry and other
paints are said to have a hard time adhereing to it. We have shot a light
coat of auto primer over hte stuff when it is just tacky / almost dry and
it helps top coats stick. It is said the stuff does not like ultraviolet
light from the sun.
When I did my 1974 MGB I used some stuff from Eastwood Co. that worked
very well. Someone posted a while back that they were worried about getting
all the rust spots out on the floor pans of the car. I felt the same
trepidation. After all every MG sooner or later gets water in the floor
pans. I sanded and used a wire wheel on my angle grinder to get it as clean
as possible and then painted it with this paint that was supposedly
developed for holds of ships and offshore oil rigs. It looks like a heavy
bodied red primer. It smoothed out real nice and top coats adhered very
well. So far not rust showing in floor pans etc.
No financial interest - void where taxed or restricted - yada yada
Advice guarnteed to be worth the price you paid for it...
Eric K.
WARNING: I tore a hole in my rubber glove while painting and still am
wearing the paint on my fingers a week and a half later. It has to wear off.
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