Whatever else you do, replace all eleven head studs while you are at it.
Many times, the leak between the head and the block is because the studs are
stretched and just will not hold their torque.
Also, retorque as soon as the engine reaches temperature after your first
start-up, then again at 500 miles or so. With an iron head, do this while
the engine is hot. If you fit an aluminum head, retorque after it cools
down.
OK, Charley, your turn.....................:-)
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
(who learned from many years of doing, and occasional reference to a
manual..................)
-----Original Message-----
From: michael poe <mgbgt74@earthlink.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 5:38 PM
Subject: smoking away
>Well, I was out for a nice drive after changing the front wheel bearings
>last week and decided I would take a trip on the interstate. Everything
was
>going fine till I hit a hill doing 70mph and white smoke just went
>everywhere(including inside the car) so I pulled over and found a nice
river
>of antifreeze running down the side of the block. It was coming from the
>head and block mating area, so I have the new headgasket. I did a little
>research and the problem only occurs over 65mph going uphill, so I am
>wondering if the head or block surface area may be warped slightly and
>separating when that amount of stress is put on the engine. Anyways, I
will
>check that when I take it apart to change out the headgasket. If that
>doesn't work, then I will just order an aluminum head from Moss and have
the
>bottom end rebuilt. Any suggestions are welcome.
>Thanks
>Michael Poe
>1974 1/2 MGB GT
>
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