hello
im new to the list but have several b's and and c's. about a year ago i put
silicone fluid in my clutch master and had a very spongy pedal that released
right off the floor.A month later i read a Grassroots Motorsports article
on brake fluids the highly recmended not using silicone in the clutch master
cant remember why but ci changed mine back and it solved the problem
----- Original Message -----
From: <REwald9535@aol.com>
To: <johnt@tsquare.com>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: Clutch, 73 MGB, argh!
>John,
>Before you take to strong drink and shoot your mentor, try this.
>Push the clutch pedal down to the floor (engine off) place a stick or a
large
>brick on pedal to keep it there. Come back tomorrow, and see if anything
>changed. I had a midget clutch job that I did for a friend that wound up
like
>yours. An old LBC mechanic recommended this procedure, and hottdamn it
>worked! YMMV
>Good luck,
>Rick Ewald
>67 MGB
>
>In a message dated 3/2/99 1:08:16 PM SA Eastern Standard Time,
>johnt@tsquare.com writes:
>
>> First off, I'd like to thank *everybody* for their very helpful
>> suggestions.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 1 Mar 1999, Art Pfenninger wrote:
>>
>> > The master cylinder can leak from within and not have any leakage
>showing,
>> > perhaps this is your problem.
>> > ...Art
>> >
>>
>> The master cylinder was replaced with a new one as part of our progress
>> toward this point (shifting once).
>>
>> Missing info: We did replace the pressure plate and clutch disk but
*not*
>> the release bearing... the "new" one we got was chipped severely and the
>> old one was still *nearly* the same thickness as the new. It was
replaced
>> a couple years before the car was parked. We also did not replace the
>> pilot bushing or any of the parts in the clutch fork hinge. These were
>> also replaced a couple years before the car was parked, at the same time
>> as the release bearing.
>>
>> The clevis bolt at the top end shows no visible signs of wear (it was
>> replaced about 3 months before the car was parked). The master cylinder
>> fork is new with the master cylinder, and therefore not ovalled. The
bolt
>> between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork is "new" (it's not quite
>> right, but there isn't any slop in there).
>>
>> I don't *think* that I put the clutch plate in backwards... my current
>> mentor claimed that it would be impossible to do so and get everything
>> cinched down flat. I checked the "This Side Forward" (or whatever it
>> was) label on the clutch disk a few times before assembling, so I don't
>> think that's it. I hope. I have suffered brain fade before, though.
>>
>> The reason I keep leaning toward air in the lines is the variable nature
>> of the problem... and the fact that it recovers on its own. The
>> possibility that the hose is bad is enticing, as it would explain things
>> and be cheap to replace. However, it was installed about 1 year before
>> the car was parked, so it shouldn't be too bad.
>>
>> The pressure on the Ezi-Bleed was cranked up pretty high (I thought you
>> used 30 psi or less, he was using 60+). I wonder if all that pressure
>> could have shoved the bubble off to one side (and made it smaller) so it
>> didn't completely bleed. Or, emulsified the hydraulic fluid with
>> teeny-tiny bubbles. We were using silicone brake fluid, the first time
I
>> ever saw it, and I couldn't tell if it was excessively cloudy or not.
>>
>> Well, given that I don't have any money left, I'm thinking of trying
these
>> things:
>>
>> 1) new clevis bolt and slave cylinder fork if available, otherwise slave
>> cylinder.
>> 2) new hose.
>> 3) bleeding it some more, the old fashioned way.
>> 4) A tranquilizer dart gun for use on my mentor. If we have to take out
>> the engine to replace the release bearing and pilot bushing, I'm going
to
>> need it.
>>
>> OK, now you can start yelling about me being my own DPO.
>>
>> --
>> John M. Trindle | jtrindle@tsquare.com | Tidewater Sports Car Club
>> '73 MGB DSP | '69 Spitfire H Stock | '88 RX-7 C Stock
>>
>
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