Erik, thanks for the help...comments below. I'm a pretty serious
amature, but if directed I think I can figure these things out.
>
> How cold is it where you are? Did it always start the first crank,
even
> in the weather that you have recently had?
Uhhh, you may be onto something. I meant to mention that in my first
post but forgot. I never drive it in the cold. When I do start it
when the engine is cold it takes several cranks to get it going, but
when the engine is warm it turns over the first crank. This past
Saturday it was about 35 degrees F(wind chill about 10), much colder
than I have ever started it in. I used to live in Texas and just
moved to St. Louis. I never had a problem in Texas, but only drove it
when it was warm and it was garaged. 2 weeks ago, when it ran fine,
it was about 50 degrees F or so. I would probably say that I have
never even tried to start it under about 50 degrees.
>
> My car only starts on the first crank when it has been run within the
> last 8 hours or it is warm out, otherwise it takes about 4 cranks!
>
> As far as diagnostics are concerned:
>
> 1. Check that your battery is perfect. DO NOT JUMP THE BATTERY.
The battery is perfect I believe, it is relatively new and I can
charge it, it holds a charge. I can let the car sit for 2 weeks and
it will still start. The only reason I did this is i didn't want the
battery to drain while I was doing all of my tests...is this a bad
thing?
>
> 2. Check that you don't have spark. You asked about this in your
> post-check it by pulling spark plug one and with it still wired hold
it
> against the block and watch for a fat blue spark. Check all the plugs
> for the same condition.
I checked 2 of the 4 and no spark. I can check the other 2.
> If you find that there is no spark, and you have already replaced
your
> coil, ensure that if it is a ballasted resistor system that you have
it
> hooked up to the ballast resistor.
It is a ballasted system. I replaced the coil and hooked up all of
the connections that were there before exactly as they were...I'm not
sure how to check for the ballast resistor. Is it that the resistance
accross the terminals of the coil should be larger when the connected
to the car as the ballast is in parallel with the coil??? (serious
amature comment there)
>
> Some questions:
>
> Have you verified that the wires are in sequence properly?
Yep...I almost hooked them up incorrectly when I replace the plugs the
first time so I did verify this.
> Have you verified that the rotor is rotating when the engine cranks?
Nope...I'll do this.
> Have you verified that the rotor points to 2 o'clock when the #1
piston
> is on the compression stroke?
Nope...I'll do this.
> Have you replaced the spark plug wires?
They are about 1 year old and had acceptable resistance so I did not
replace them...should I?
> Have you checked your wiring to the elec. ignition box?
I did, but I don't understand exactly how this works. All seems to be
in tact.
>
> I think that you have a simple but elusive problem, but I can only
guess
> based on what I know.
I agree as I said the car ran great 2 weeks ago...now nothing. I had
a thought yesterday that it had something to do with the cold and then
thought, there is no way the 30 degrees could make that much
difference....could I be wrong.
What and where is the condenser? How do I check it?
Again, thanks for the help and patience.
Regards,
Tom
77B (doesn't like the cold)
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