Allen,
Try these simple things before you get into the expense of new blowers.
1. Just rinse out the heater core. Detach the hoses and hold a garden
hose to them. Turn on the pressure and amuse yourself with the amount of
crud that comes out of the heater core. If it is like mine, it will be
loaded with rust, dirt and other things that you have been missing for
years. Rinse in both directions. Reconnect.
2. Check that the little heater valve on the block is actually open.
They are pushed by the cable so that the lever should be at the limit of
the most outboard position of the slot in which it turns. If the lever
is not there when the heat control is at HOT, then loosen the cable and
reposition it to fully open the valve. It is possible that the rubber
part of the valve is stuck shut...could be time for a new valve, but you
can test this by feeling the temp of the heater hose and comparing it to
the upper radiator hose.
3. Switch the two heater motor wires in their connectors to the power
supply. On several MGBs where I have checked this, what appears to be
the correct color-coding is actually not correct. Connected one way the
motor will run faster than when connected the other way. Your hand at the
heater outlet will tell you---the difference is substantial.
Bob
On Sun, 31 Jan 1999 20:59:28 -0400 Florrie & Allen Bachelder
<bachldrs@swva.net> writes:
>Listers -
>
>I would like to get Heritage certificates for a couple of my cars. '
>Have
>seen where to write but didn't take note. Can somebody tell me where
>to
>write, the current cost in US $ and is it possible to pay on VISA/MC.
>Getting a check in £ sterling from a local bank in SW Virginia is
>seriously
>expensive business. There's got to be a better way.
>
>Also - ' Fired up the '67 B this afternoon for the first time since
>November. ' Took it out and warmed it up real well. Except, despite
>our
>balmy 29 degrees Fahrenheit, it just never hardly warmed up. With
>3/4ths
>of the rad covered with cardboard, I finally got it up to 165 degrees
>- and
>a little dribble of heat leaked into the cockpit. Now I realize that
>this
>32-year-old car about which I know very little could have a severely
>blocked heater core. My '76 heater does work quite a bit better. But
>still - an 1800 cc engine running at 180-190 degrees (in the '76)
>ought to
>be able to generate enough heat to drive you out of that little bitty
>cockpit at anything above zero anyway. If a Corolla can do it, why
>not an
>MG?
>
>I've heard of aftermarket replacement squirrel cages for the blower
>that
>are supposed to be much better, and I've read of using heavier wiring
>to
>the blower (using a relay to the switch) which is reported to improve
>its
>performance. Has anybody developed a better heater core? Have any of
>your
>cold-climate daily drivers addressed this?
>
>TIA!
>
>Allen
>
>Allen H. Bachelder =iii=<
>Sinking Creek Home for Wayward MGs
>New Castle, VA 24127
>USA
>540/544-7333
>
>
>
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