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Re: Misc. MGB ?'s (long)

To: MSLishego <mikesl@tartan.sapc.edu>
Subject: Re: Misc. MGB ?'s (long)
From: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 13:19:30 -0500 (EST)
Mike, next time you have to remove the slave cylinder hose use a crows
foot wrench It make the job a lot easier, on the same scale as taking off
a normal nut.
...Art

On Mon, 21 Dec 1998, MSLishego wrote:

> Hello all,
>       Work began yesterday on my MGB, as I set out to right the wrongs in and
> out of the car.  I pulled the carbs and began to detail the engine bay back
> to it's original split-pea-soup green color, and noticed that there is a
> coat of what seems to be primrose yellow paint underneath it.  I have
> checked under the dash, under the gas tank, and other improbable places
> only to find the green paint.  Can someone tell me what color primer was
> used on most MGB's?  I'd like to hear that it's a yellowish primer, so I
> can keep the green.  Everyone I show it to thinks it's a disgusting color
> to paint the car, but the more I see it, the more it grows on me...
>       Let me just say that I will never buy an MGB that has hydraulic clutch
> problems.  I spent quite a few hours removing all the offending components
> from the car - the master cylinder came out easily.  But, I found that I
> ordered the wrong rebuild kit for it.  You see, the ring stamped into the
> housing had rusted away, but when I flipped the cylinder over, I was able
> to see it.  No problem, I found one of my old clutch cylinders that the
> parts would fit.  It was different than the other two I had, in that it was
> an aluminum unit made in Australia by a co called PBR.  Anyone heard of it?
>  The rebuild went well until I decided to put the thing back in the
> car...and found it was too big.  Yep, it was from a rubber bumper car, and
> it's cap would interfere with my brake fluid reservoir.  After some
> creative swearing and a few swats from Mr. BFH, the pedal box graciously
> allowed the new cylinder in.  
>       I rebuilt the slave cylinder with no problems.  Removing that flex hose
> was fun though - if I'd have known how hard it would be to get a wrench in
> that little spot, I would have replaced the hose when my starter was out!  
>       After one bleeding, the clutch pedal seems to have less movement in it
> than the old one did, but is very stiff.  Does anyone who had an RBB and a
> CBB notice a difference in clutch feel?  Another question - when I'm
> bleeding the slave, I can watch the pushrod on the tranny move about an
> inch or so, is that about right?
>       I pulled my carbs to finally fix the air leak and to give myself more 
>room
> when working on the master cylinder.  I was chatting with a big-block Chevy
> friend of mine, and he suggested painting my rusty head pipe with some
> hi-temp stove paint.  It's good to 1000 degrees and it only cost me four
> bucks so I gave it a shot.  At best, it'll look good for a few years.  At
> worst, it will burn off and billow smoke for the next 15 hours of
> operation.  
>       While pulling the carbs, I took the liberty of hacking the rough texture
> off of the inside of my SU intake with my dremel tool.  Will this help or
> hurt performance, or will it be so negligible that I'll never know?
>       Tomorrow I'm headed out to try to find some paint that will match my
> engine bay - does anyone know of a brand of paint that is a close match to
> tundra green?  
>       Oh yeah, one more thing...I remember reading about how to rebuild your
> carbon canister - I thought I'd check mine out and I found it to be empty. 
> What do I do to make it functional again - fill it with aquarium charcoal? 
> If anyone has 'restored' their carbon canister in this manner, let me
> know...I'd like to hear about it.
>       Thanks for all the help, and I'll let you know how this stuff comes 
>out...
> 
> Mike "Ruining Larry Macy's Posting Theory" Lishego
> 1974 MGB
> 1986 Plymouth Turismo 2.2
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/3706
> 


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