I called Rancho Suspension's technical support line (800-574-6527) and the
Rep said they had no direct conversion for Monroe Sensa-Trac No. 5877 to a
RS9000. He did how ever suggest 2 possibilities:
Part No
RS9129 1" shorter than the extended length of the Monroe 5877
RS9119 1.5" longer in compressed length.
He also said the shock bodies are also a larger diameter and that the
sleeves would need to be changed.
On my Jeep the adjustably of the shocks is a God-send. On setting 1, it
rides very softly. On setting 5, it rides like a rock, but holds the ground
well. However, the jeep is a much heavier vehicle, which would effect the
setting 1 ride.
Nick
73B
> -----Original Message-----
> Nick....
>
> I had to check the numbers at work today, which is why I didn't reply last
> night.
>
> I used Monroe Sensa-Trac No. 5877
>
> Lawrie
> -----Original Message-----
> >On my Jeep CJ7, I run Rancho RS9000 shocks which are adjustable
> (1-mild to
> >5-stiff). Rancho shocks are made by Monroe and run about $65 each. I
> >wonder if there is a Rancho equivalent to the Monroe shock--although
> >Rancho's focus is on the offroad market. If someone can email me the
> Monroe
> >part/model number, I'll give them a ring.
> >
> >Nick
> >73B
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> OK, here's the report I intended to post yesterday.............
> >>
> >> Following the instructions on Skye Poier's excellent website, I bought
> the
> >> items listed. The Monroe SensaTracs (as reported earlier) actually cost
> >> around $37 apiece, which kinda blew the "do the job for $40"
> plan out the
> >> window. Also, the long bolts were about 1/2" too long and the
> short ones
> >> were way too short. I also determined that, since the hole in the
> >> eye of the
> >> shock plate is 1/2", it would be better to run a 1/2" drill bit
> >> through the
> >> shock and use 1/2" bolts at the bottom, to make a stronger, more secure
> >> mount.
> >>
> >> On the road, the Monroe SensaTracs, being gas-filled, actually
> >> add a bit of
> >> bounce to the suspension. (When you compress them, they automatically
> >> stretch back out to full length when you let go, unlike a
> shock which is
> >> just a damper.) This, to my way of thinking, gives the car (a
> >> 77B) a bit of
> >> a "rubbery" feel at the back on smooth roads. However, the damping is
> >> definitely better than with the regular lever arm shocks.
> >>
> >> At which point, a comment is needed. If you are replacing
> >> worn-out lever arm
> >> shocks, your perception of the difference the tube shocks make will be
> >> different than if you are - as I was - replacing a perfectly
> serviceable
> >> pair of lever arm shocks. I mention this only to put some
> >> perspective on the
> >> claims made occasionally for just how good the tube shocks are!
> >>
> >> The ride with the Monroe SensaTracs over ripply roads is
> better than with
> >> the lever arms. Road-holding seems about the same, although I
> >> have noticed a
> >> tendency to spin the inside tire on a tight turn more than before.
> >>
> >> Conclusion? The basic set-up is good (with the change of lower bolt
> >> diameter) and installation is quick and easy. Skye's listed
> instructions
> >> should recommend new spring-to-axle pads, though, as these are
> >> almost always
> >> worn out and this is the perfect time to replace them. I'm going to do
> >> another set-up on another car soon, and I'll try and find some non-gas
> >> shocks to see if they eliminate the odd feeling the Monroes give.
> >> If not, I
> >> will for sure try the very much less expensive Gabriels that
> Jim reported
> >> on!
> >>
> >> In any event, unless you want the adjustability of the Spax
> shocks or the
> >> originality of the lever arms, this conversion is a great way
> to keep the
> >> rear springs on your B under control.
> >>
> >> Lawrie
> >> British Sportscar Center
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
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