I need to adjust the float level on the SU carburetors of a '67 MGB that
I am trying to resurrect. The Haynes manual say to flip the float bowel
cover over and adjust the floats so that they clear the rim of the cover
by 1/8" in the center. While that all seems straight forward, my
question arises from the fact that the end of the needle valve that the
float presses against is spring loaded. (I have no clue if this car has
stock needle valves or not!) Should the 1/8" clearance be obtained with
the float just touching the end of the needle valve or with the end of
the needle valve pushed in? It makes quite a bit of difference in float
height and the manual doesn't say anything about it.
Also, since the car will only start and run for about 10 seconds, I need
to take the jet and the tube running from the float bowel to the jet off
and clean them. Can this be done easily with the carbs on the car or is
it better to take the carbs off? Right now I'm just trying to find out
what kind of shape the engine is in. If I go ahead and restore the car
I go ahead and rebuild the carbs. Considering that the car has sat for
16 years, the engine seems to be in good shape, no smoke and good oil
pressure. Also, all the gauges and lights work. I just need to get the
carb situation squared away and rebuild the clutch and brake hydraulics
to get the car on the road. Thanks!
Kevin Brown '67 MGB '65 MGB '71 MGB '74 TR6 '76 TR6 '89 MR2 '98
GTP
Odessa, MO
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