neil.cairns@virgin.net wrote:
>
> XPAG Question
> >
> > Woof!!
> > Pay dirt!
> > Thanks for the reply, Neil.
> >
>
>
>
> > Is this engine a hard one to rebuild? (I've done a few VW's in the past)
>
> No, it is pretty bomb proof, and is a typical British 1930's designed
> OHV unit, based on the 1140cc Morris Ten sedan of 1938. Parts can be had
> from Moss in the USA, or NTG in the UK on < NTG200@aol.com >. You really
> need a workshop manual, the only people whom I know sell them in the UK
> 'Octagon Car Club' UK 01785 251014 fax 248386.
>
> >
> > I think this engine might have seen some wear. The oil pressure is around
> > 30-35 and if I run the engine at a higher rpm (sitting in the garage) and
> > then let it idle, it'll drop down to around 20. I don't know what that
> > really tells me tho', since I don't know what it's supposed to be.
>
> A) Oil pressure on a HOT engine should be 50psi at idle,( book actually
> says 70 to 40 psi.) There are many reasons why it can be low, and it is
> worth checking these out.
>
> 1) The oil pressure relief ball has grooves in it, and is not seating
> correctly. This lives under the big brass nut under the oil pump. It is
> just a big ball bearing, with a spring seating it. If it has ANY marks
> or grooves, fit a new ball, and seat it by tapping it firmly into the
> pump.
>
> 2) Excessive end-float in the gears inside the oil pump, letting oil go
> back to the inlet. The end cap is held on with 8 bolts, and there should
> only be 0.04mm end float. Worn gears themselves can cause loss of
> pressure as well.
>
> 3) Worn bearings in the engine, which yours sounds as if it has, hence
> the 20psi oil pressure. The crankshaft needs measuring to see if it
> needs re-grinding, or just new shell bearings fitting. If you can see
> the copper undercoat in the shell bearings faces, expect the worst!
>
> The oil pump is one of the best around, it will supply good pressure
> long after the bearings are worn....it is a common trick to put washers
> under the oil pressure relief valve above to 'boost' the running
> pressure!!!
>
> > I hooked the oil pressure sensor up to the banjo fitting at the base of the
> > head (above the cylinder section) as I saw in a parts catalog picture. Is
> > this right?
>
> A) Oil pressure is measured from the BOTTOM connection, of the head oil
> feed pipe, you will get a few more psi there as well.
>
> > (If I took it from the banjo that's lower the reading would likely be
> > higher.)
>
> a) Yes!
> >
> > The 'hot' compression reading I'm getting is about 120 per cylinder. Do you
> > know what this reading should be?
>
> a) On a 7.2 compression ratio, thats pretty good. Your cylinder bores
> might be in good condition, but lots of oil will mask worn piston rings
> and give you good compression readings. The proof would be in a long
> run, then the oil consumption may show you could have worn rings caused
> by 'ring-pumping'.
> >
> > My clutch rod linkage system rattles a LOT. (sounding annoyingly like a BAD
> > rod knopck) Is this normal/fixable?
>
> A) The rod system wears at the holes, most people weld up the edges of
> the holes in the linkage, then re-drill them, fitting new clevis pins.
> There should be a return spring at the very front, on the side of the
> sump.
>
> ...other problems the engine suffers from is advanced wear of the
> rocker-shaft and the rocker bushes, as well as the push-rod ends
> becoming loose. The camshaft lobes also wear out, giving a very noisy
> engine. The camshaft bearings are pretty crude as well, but easy to
> replace.
> >
> > Thanks for anything.
> >
> > Bottomless Well Of Questions
> >
>
> > > Subject: Re: TD Questions from a Rookie
|