On 7/17/98 8:09 PM so and so (Dan Ray) said. (And I quote:)
>Doing the WHOLE engine seems to be a consensus.
>It makes sense, especially since I'll have the engine out anyway.
>I am somewhat hampered by a lack of history on the engine, thanks to the PO.
>The engine HAS been worked, but I just don't know when or how many miles.
>(guess I'll find out, won't I?)
>Guess I'll start saving my pennies and prep for a full rebuild. It WOULD
>definitely suck to have the bearings or rings go after I'd went to all the
>trouble of doing the top end!
>Lukewarm on the flywheel lightening. I'm leaning towards leaving the
>flywheel AND cam stock and improving the breathing with the head and K&Ns
>(ANSA is in place already).
>I like low-end torque, and that redline on the tach is ok with me, as long
>as I know things won't fly apart I can deal with the noise. :)
>
>Dan
>73 B
Dan,
The biggest thing you will have to deal with is the crank and cylinder
bores. The crank may need turning and the cylinders bored. Get and or
borrow an inside and outside micrometer and measure them, check for
scoring, etc. Sometimes you can just do a hone job on the cylinders,
sometimes not. There is usually a ridge at the top of the cylinder, you
may need a ridge reamer, depends on the amount of wear on the bores.
I have to agree, as long as it is out, check it all out and do what is
necessary. In my experience, it is a pain to repeatedly pull the engine,
unless you have the proper facilites.
In the mean time, enjoy the work, I always have.
Larry Macy
78 Midget
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