<<I miked the left front, and it's .329". Manual says it should be .330 to
.340 minimum, so it looks like I need to replace them.
Is there anything I should get besides the discs? In the diagrams, I see
no seals or anything else.
Is it worthwhile to spend an extra hundred bucks and get steel braided
cables, or are they not really worth the expense for normal driving?
Does anyone sell drilled discs (to dissapate heat faster)? Moss doesn't
have them. Opinions?
thanks much,
Dave Iwansky>>
Well, Dave, it isn't absolutely necessary to change the rotors just because
they are at minimum, but by the sound of it, you have at least one warped
rotor, so you may as well buy new ones, as they would be well under size by
the time you turn them.
You will also want to wash out and inspect the ball bearings for roughness,
and repack them, and replace the front hub seals while you are at it.
I would mount the new rotors and have them put the hubs in a lathe while the
bearings are out to give them a very light skim just to true them up. This is
de rigeur for American discs, as they are likely to be out of true when new,
and sadly also for MG stuff, although in years past this wasn't the case with
British rotors, it just isn't worth the risk of putting them back on the car
unskimmed, only to find that the original problem hasn't gone away.
Don't bother with drilled rotors - aside from racing use, this is just an
excuse for the vendor to charge more, or for the owner to brag about the
'racing' bits that he doesn't really need.
The braided brake lines (not cables), on the other hand, do offer benefits of
firmer pedal on the street, but check with your insurance company, as they are
not likely rated for street use and might be an excuse for the insurer to deny
coverage if you ever had an accident that involved brakes. We run them in
racing, but still change them every few years. At minimum, think about putting
in new stock lines if they haven't been replaced in recent times, and inspect
every steel line on the car for rust.
Happy stopping.
Bill S.
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