I don't know what piece you have the broken stud, but if it is off the
car, this works in a vast majority of cases.
Take a standard nut sized to fit over the stud (if you can get a couple
of threads started so much the better). Then carefully touch the stud/nut
join with your arc welder. Don't try to run a bead around it, just enough
to get a decent tack.. Allow the weld to cool slightly, but before it
reaches ambient temp., turn the nut with a wrench.
Most times the heat from the weld will be sufficient to break the
internal threads loose enough to be backed out. The nut just makes it
easy.
Rick Morrison
72 MGBGT
74 Midget
On Sat, 14 Mar 1998 17:14:28 -0800 Larry Dickstein <bugide@tfs.net>
writes:
>Trevor Boicey wrote:
>>
>> I have to attack a broken stud, but I am not afraid yet
>> since there is a lot showing.
>>
>> Are those stud extractors that go on the sockets worth
>> their price? I guess if I am going to buy one I should do it
>> before I screw it up with mole grips.
>>
>> --
>> Trevor Boicey
>> Ottawa, Canada
>> tboicey@brit.ca
>> http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
>
>
>You might try milling the sides of the stud flat for a better grip.
>If
>that doesn't work, then I think you faced w/ buying the right tool. I
>try not to do that either, but sometimes you have to.
>--
>Larry Dickstein Kansas City, MO
>'58 Bugeye, '67 BJ 8, '67 MGB V8
>
>
>
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