Bill:
Down here, NO ONE, uses silicon fluid for racing, to my knowledge. Butch
tried it once and lost his brakes. From what I have discovered, it works
well in even hot street driven cars, but not in race cars. As it heats up
fjor some reason the M/C needs a longer stroke to operate correctly, or
something like that. On MG T and A cars, we take out the piston in the M/C
and cut .050 off of the back side. This allows the piston to retract
farther, and prevents wheel lockup. This works quite well. I got the tip
some years ago from Jonathon Twist.
The biggest problem is not lockup, when the rubber swells, it leaves a
small amount of pressure on the system and the brake lites stick on .
Eventually the bulbs and or the switch burns out. I have also noticed that
you will sosmetimes go thru switches more often. The silicon seems to cause
the switch to quit working. But all in all I still like the positive
aspects to using silicon in street driven cars. I still dont put it in
unless I put all new components in the system.
Cheers:
Skip............At 11:20 AM 2/7/98 EST, WSpohn4@aol.com wrote:
><<I have installed silicone fluid in four of my MGs. It works ferfectly. This
>goes back 20 years. There are some tricks to set up the Master cyl. Esp. in
>T types and MGAs. Contact me for further info.
>
>Cheers;
>Skip>>
>
>A number of people had trouble with noncompatible rubbers from old seal kits
>in the early days (like swelling up and locking the brakes on), although
this
>may no longer be a problem if NOS kits are exhausted. In racing most people
>don't like the pedal feel, and use normal fluid, although some use silicone
>without apparent problem.
>
>The theory certainly is attractive for cars that sit in storage for any
period
>of time.
>
>Bill S.
>
>
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