Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions.
I'm going to go look for the shims for the front hubs today up in the "big
city", Louisville, and I will look at the availability of silicone brake
fluid. Since I'm not going to replace the M/C or calipers (yet), I think
I'll stay with DOT, since I don't want to ruin the seals which are of
questionable age. I'm replacing the wc's because I KNOW they are bad. My
fingers are crossed on the M/C and caliper pistons!
Yes, I've got stainless steel hoses to replace all three!
DOT 4 is ok, right?
Dan
'73 B
-----Original Message-----
From: HLUB34A@aol.com <HLUB34A@aol.com>
To: danray@bluegrass.net <danray@bluegrass.net>
Date: Friday, February 06, 1998 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Related/suggestions
>Hi and how is the brake job coming?
>
>In 1990 after a year of leaking brake calipers, I had all 4 disc brakes on
the
>xke rebuilt. I had the master cylinder rebuilt, all new brake booster parts
>installed and all four calipers rebuilt (White Post). I made the decision
at
>that time to put in purple silicone. This was my thinking: I have 4 old
>british boys and since they sit more than drive, I didn't need the hassle
of
>standard brake fluid grief. Silicone does not eat paint, absorb moisture or
do
>many of the nasty things standard fluid is capable of. for those who say
that
>the boiling point is low, there is now racing grade silicone.
>
>The entire system was flushed with denatured alcohol and everything was
>rebuilt and had new seals. I believe MOss and victoria british sells the
>silicone stuff by the quart, and probably Roadster Factory does, too.
>
>One thing to keep in mind is that there may be a problem if you have brake
>switches that are in the silicone. What appears to happen is the normal
>electrical arcing that occurs when the switch is activated, makes the
silicone
>crystallize or gelatinize, neither of which is appropriate for a braking
>system.
>
>I have now had the silicone system in place for almost 8 years. Two years
ago,
>when my slave cylinder puked, I replaced it and also bled and flushed the
>clutch lines and used silicone there as well.
>
>I can't address the nay-sayers in the group, because I don't know how they
>effected the change. Did they just pour the silicone in on top of the dot
4?
>did they neglect to flush the system and/or replace all the rubber seals
that
>may have absorbed dot 4? In what condition were their mcs and wheel
>cylinders/calipers? These are all variables that could have affected a
>successful silicone switchover.
>
>when I get to the same point in the braking system with my midget, the mga
and
>the tr-6 there is no doubt in my mind that I would go the silicone route.
>
>As for all purpose grease, look for an "all-purpose" high temperature
grease.
>Yeah, I did buy mine in a tub, but cut down an old coffee can, tape the cut
>rim and store the tub in there. I also like lithium grease,which does come
in
>a tube. It depends on the intended purpose.
>
>A last note, while you are going whole-hog on your brake job, be sure to
>replace the brake hoses. They can often look ok from the outside but be
>disintegrating on the inside which will create interesting braking problems
>(chunks that hang down on the inside and prevent back and forth flow of
>fluid.)
>
>I'm doing carb work this weekend. The tr6 float chambers decided to drip,
so
>now's the chance to get it down before summer comes.......... in june.
>
> Hope everything goes well,
>Valerie Stabenow
>
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