Trevor.
If you mix up the hoses in question, you will never get it to run. I
recently ran across this problem on a friends car. I cant remember the
exact correct hook up , but he had the incoming fuel line hooked to the
vent/overflow outlet. This caused the fuel to enter the float
bowl,bypassing the needle valve, and flooding the engine with gas. This
could be your problem.
Cheers:
Skip..............
At 12:33 AM 1/24/98 -0600, Blake Wylie wrote:
>At 01:12 AM 1/24/98 -0500, Trevor Boicey wrote:
>> One goes to a fuel line that goes around behind the
>>carbs and feeds the back float bowl, through one of it's two
>>ports, fine.
>>
>> The other goes to a fuel line that goes over TOP of
>>the carbs and feeds the back bowl in the other port.
>>
>
>Hmmmmmmm....one of these are wrong.
>
>You only need one line running to the back float. The connector looking
>thing that is the lowest level should be for the overflow...it shouldn't be
>connected to anything (unless you have the stock overflow pipes which run
>out of the engine bay).
>
>So, basically you need a line running from the pump to the front bowl, then
>from that same level, you have a line running to the back bowl. Nothing
>should be on the lower level connector.
>
>You're right about not needing two lines that do the same thing. :\
>
>
>BTW...ordering new groose needles are a good idea. What I did for mine is
>just to order new needles for the float bowls, and new jets for the carbs.
>I then tuned em up, and went on (you may need to get new jet needles too).
>>From your problems, I would think that you have problems with your carbs,
>and it's just a matter of finally getting them tuned up.
>
>Have you actually tuned them yet? Or at least got them to a good starting
>position to tune them (since you haven't been able to get the car running to
>get them tuned of course). What you need to do first is to get the jets
>level with the bridge...which means get it level with the top of that thing
>it sits in. Then, lower them four flats with the nuts that lower the jets.
>This should be a good position to start. Also, make sure that the idle
>screws and the idle rod are even for both sides. You will have to adjust
>these around while trying to crank it, and once you finally crank it, you
>can adjust it...if that makes any sense.
>
>Hopefully, after you get those carbs in decent shape (and not have lines
>running everywhere), you can get the car cranked. It may not run very well,
>and don't expect it to, but after that, we can get on with tuning those
>babies. And that's not too hard once you learn how. :) We'll get to that
>when the time comes, I guess. :)
>
>Hope some of this helps just a wee bit, and good luck. :)
>
>Blake Wylie
>1970 MGB
>
>
>
|