Frank,
Yes, it is possible that the sending unit is frozen in the 'light on'
position. It's also possible that the wire from the lamp to the sending
unit is grounding out someplace. First check - go under the car and remove
the lead from the top of the sending unit. Turn the key on. Does the low
fuel lamp come on? If so - the problem is not in the sending unit, but is
in the wiring. If not - you have a problem at/in the sending unit.
Has it been working properly? Oftentimes, if the car sits with an empty
tank for an extended period of time the pivot may bind up and prevent the
switch from functioning.
The switch functions by a closure to ground when the float drops below a
certain level. It is possible to remove the small plate from the front of
the sending unit and see the switch contacts. As a bridge player once
said,"one peek is worth a thousand finesses".
It's not difficult to remove the sending unit, free it up, and reinstall
it. The worst part of the job is draining the tank. I became an expert at
that when I had a persistent leak. Drop me a line if you'd like some more
help on this.
Bud Krueger
52TD (was on the road Saturday. Hood down. How else?)
Plymouth, Mass.
Frank R. Krajewski wrote:
> Is there a test to determine if the sending unit on my 1953 TD is bad.
> The green warning light stays on regardless of how much fuel is in the
> tank. I have dutifully traced the wires and they are correct. The only
> variable now is the sending unit itself. I know with later model LBCs
> with gauges it is possible to ground the gauge and see if the needle
> goes to full but how does one conduct such a test on the TD and that
> damn warning lite?
> Frank Krajewski "RI Swamp Yankee"
|