Hi Dean,
The Moss catalogue has a short section on gauge diagnosis and repair.
They suggest that the sending unit be checked by removing the
green/black wire from the unit. Conect one end of a test light to the
terminal on this wire, the other to ground. Switch on the ignition. Gauge
should begin a slow climb to full and test lamp should glow. If gauge
does register, the sending unit must be bad. If gauge still does not
work, it is either disconnected (check continuity of its wiring) or
defective.
Check for faulty voltage stabilizer. Stabilizer output should be 10v
average. If there is no output, or the output is steady at battery
voltage, stabilizer is bad.
As to alternator--I had one rebuilt, then experienced the same
problem. This was a number of years ago.....I think that the fix was to
move one or two of the three wires on the plug to the
alternator.......might check on this with the wiring diagram and
multimeter. Wish I could remember specifics on this fix.
Bob
On Sun, 04 Jan 1998 10:54:49 -0600 Dean Crowley
<dcdccccckc@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>My gas guage reads only 1/4 tank when full after replacing with a new
>sending unit. The
>guage goes to full if you ground it out at the wire near the tank.
>Hmmm.....Any ideas.
>
>My alternator has been replace several times in an attempt to fix a
>charging problem. I
>have also replaced the battery, terminals at the starter, checked the
>wiring, replace
>the red bulb, which now illuminates on start up, and still end up with
>a dead battery
>about every four days of driving. No drain on the battery being shown
>with a meter. test
>light to negative post shows no drain. Hmmmm.... Any ideas.
>Alternation show 14 plus
>volts output. Apparently not getting to the battery. Hmmm...
>
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