My 2.5=A2
I used a rust "reformer" (I think 'Oxy-Solv') on the floor pan and then
followed it up with the corroless. I also used POR15 on some areas,
without any treatment under it (as per their directions) The jury is still
out on the POR15 areas.
If it's in an area that is likely to get hit with rocks and such from the
road, I think POR15 might be too brittle and may chip off (just a personal
theory after working with the stuff). I would probably try a rust
converter, then Corroless, then undercoating (which I guess you could also
put over the POR15 to keep it from chipping anyway)
I think what sold me on the Corroless is that they use it on North Sea oil
rigs, and I've been tossed around on the North Sea before (not a very
hospitable place!)
CTP
At 10:12 PM -0800 12/23/97, Joseph Cianciotti wrote:
>Thanks for the fast replies. I've decided to tackle my little rust issue
>now. (Even with El Ni=F1o, I should be able to find a couple of warm, dry
>days here is S.F.) Which treatment is better: Eastwood's Corroless or POR
>15? I've seen those two mentioned in posts before. Also, a couple of
>people mentioned Rustoleum Rust reformer. How does it compare to the
>others? Will any of these treatments damage surrounding paint? And
>finally, can someone with 10 thumbs, like myself, use this stuff without
>making the problem worse? Thanks in advance for the advice.
>
>Joseph
>67 Roadster
>(Mineral blue. Now with a couple of brown spots.)
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