Matt Kulka wrote:
> Now I'm in for a camshaft *and* pistons. As long as I'm ordering both,
> I'm back to thinking of that 270 degree camshaft, and some flat top
> pistons. (Let's see, does that make the compression ratio 8.5:1 or
> 8.7:1?)
>
> Question 1: If I may impose on the list, are there any other
> modifications I should make to get the best out of the 270 cam and flat
> pistons? I'd like to stick with the twin SU's and the standard exhaust
> manifold if possible. (And, naturally, cost is a consideration since
> I'm already having to replace the cam and pistons.)
a.) Some minor polishing of the intake bowls just above the valveb.)
No-lead-head seats and guides
c.) Mallory Dual point (and with SUs) vacuum advance.
d.) Figure out just how hot a cam you won't and then back off to the next
milder version.
e.) Tappets and new valve springs.
f.) Total Seal piston rings.
g.) Avoid anything higher than 9.5 to 1 compression.
> Question 2: The vacuum advance in my distributor is stuck tight, and
> one of the springs in the centrifugal advance is stretched so that it
> doesn't even touch the posts until full advance. I know no one's been
> able to come up with new springs, are there any good suggestions for
> distributor refurbishment?
The two springs are supposed to be different weights. The 'tighter' spring
is for lower RPM and the 'loose' spring is for maximum RPM.
At a minimum, you can take your distributor apart, wire brush all the
corrosion off with your Gibbonizer, solder on new contact and ground wires
with some fine-strand 22 gauge (with a couple of loops in it to allow
movement). Definately replace the vaccuum mechanism. Soak the lower half in
oil for a couple of days to rejuvenated the bushing.
But a Mallory Dual-Point is the way to go IMHO.
> My wife's cat sends greetings.
I'm glad to hear your old lady's pussy is out and about again.
--
Bob Allen, Kansas City, '69CGT, '75TR6, '61Elva(?)
"Outside every thin woman is a fat man trying to get in." -- Katherine
Whitehorn
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