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Paint

To: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>
Subject: Paint
From: Rich Mason <rmason@ro.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 10:20:59 -0500
At 08:30 AM 11/23/97 -0500, Art wrote:
>       Using the HVLP gun you need no more than 2 quarts of paint. I
>recommend lacquer. Depending on the color it should be $40 or less a
>quart. Next you will need 1 quart of surfacer primer, about $25. You will
>also need 2 gallons of lacquer thinner about $18 per gallon. A quart of
>Prep-Sol and 5 sheets of 400 grit and 5 sheets 600 grit wet& dry sand
>paper as well as a few sheets of regular paper to lightly sand the car
>before painting. If you are dealing with the original finish and it is in
>decent condition you shouldn't have to remove it. If it has been repainted
>then you will need to determine what type of finish it has and get advice
>from the paint dealer on what to do with it. One last item will be a can
>of rubbing compound to rub the lacguer out.This will cost about $7.00.
>Paint-          $80
>Primer          $40
>Thinner         $36
>Prep-Sol        $15
>Sandpaper       $10
>Rubbing compound $7
>              ------
>              $188
>
>I was a little off from the $150 I for got to add in stuff (Prep-Sol and
>sand paper) that I have laying around and therefore don't have to
>purchase.
>...Art 


Art-

Thanks for the info...the body shop supply folks here are recommending an
acrylic enamel with a hardener system (they don't even sell lacquer any
more).  I guess that's part of the higher cost I'm seeing.  I'm not sure
what I'm going to do now.  I hope you don't mind a few more questions... :) 

1) What is Prep-Sol?

2) I too, was thinking that lacquer was the way to go, but everyone is
trying to talk me out of it.  The only negative that I hear is that you have
a lot more labor to rub out the finish initially, and you have to
periodically buff it out.  Is there a way to clear-coat the lacquer to keep
it shiny and new-looking?  

3) Will a good waxing keep lacquer from needing the rubbing out (after the
initial work)?

4) How many coats of lacquer do you recomend?  

5) Is wet sanding w/ 600 grit between coats just for defect removal, or is
it required for adhesion?

If anyone else with experience wants to jump in here - I'd appreciate all
the help I can get!

Thanks again for your help.

Regards,

Rich Mason
'73 MGB
Huntsville, AL
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