Benjamin Ruset wrote:
>Well, my nemesis (78B) and I are at odds still.
<snip>
Hi Ben,
I wanted to respond directly to your email address but it wasn't on the
message that I read so I'm responding to the "list".
It sounds as if you have a frustrating problem. It should be a simple one
to work around though. For some background, I recently puchased two
non-running MGB's, a '76 and a '79. One has electronic ignition and one has
points. Niether had spark. I had both running within an hour.
I admit I may have gotten lucky on the electronic unit but I removed it
from the engine, completely disassembled it and cleaned it out. Apparently
there was a poor ground somewhere in it. It worked.
Same thing with the '76. The points were corroded and rusted. Pulled the
dist. cleaned it, filed the points (Used the same ones)and it worked.
One of the tests I did to see if I could get ANY spark was to:
a) connect a jumper to the (-) side of the coil
b) put a spark plug (see the test spark plug thread from a few weeks ago)
in the coil wire
c)turn on the ingnition
d) rapidly touch the other end of the jumper wire to a good ground. This
simulates a set of point opening/closing.
If you get spark you know:
The coil works.
The hot from the ignition switch is good.
If there is no spark hot wire the coil from the battery to the plus side
(remember to disconnect when done)and retest or change the coil.
You could also change to a points type distrbutor. Nice, easy, mechanical
device to troubleshoot. If you can even borrow one, hook up the lead to the
coil (-), ground the body with the jumper wire and spin it by hand to see
if you have any spark. (Same test procedure as above applies.) I actually
did this test when I was working on the electronic (and points) dist to
save time and cranking power on the battery. As I said I got the both
distributors to work.
As for being able to rotate the distributor 45 degrees. That is a concern.
If the block located mounting screws are loose it should only rotate about
15 degrees (guess). Either these screws are missing or the clamp around the
base of the dist is loose or the bolt is missing. This is important because
if you ever get spark you will need to get the correct timing for the
engine to run. But that's another subject.
I know you've been messing with this for a few weeks but I'm sure it will
turn out to be a simple problem in the end. Just think of all the ignition
experience your getting.
Hope my 2 cents helps.
Steve Bettencourt
'79 MGB
'76 MGB
'89 T-10 Blazer
Steve's HotRod World Home Page
http://members.aol.com/CruzinRI
http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/4995
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