Tom,
You seem to be at the exact same stage as I am, but I think I
may have been fighting with it for longer.
I have a 1978 MGB Roadster, which looks pretty good, everything
is original. I too have replaced wires, distrib cap, plugs, filters
etc. and
have reset the timing, it runs fairly well at speed, but whatever I do
with
the carb, I do not seem to be able to get it to idle smoothly. Also I
live in
California and I am convinced it will not pass the Smog test.
The only thing I can offer relative to your problems is:
Mine used to run-on or backfire when I switched it off. I replaced all
the
various hoses from the valve cover to the carb/manifold and the ones to
the charcoal cannisters etc. and made sure all the vacuum lines and
fixtures
were all good. Well it doesn't run-on or backfire anymore, it doesn't
idle any
better though. I can only think there was some sort of leak associated
with
the anti-runon valve just in front of the washer reservoir.
Just a thought, or perhaps your valve is faulty?
Anyway please let me know if you learn any more with respect to that
'Damn Zenith' Carb.
Bye for now,
Alan B.'
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Tom McLaughlin
To: mgs
Subject: Stromberg Carb Help?!?!
Date: Wednesday, November 12, 1997 1:27PM
Anyone out there have a simple guide on how best to tune these beasts.
I
know there is a manual just for the Zenith, but I don't have it (should
I
get it?). This is probably old hat for many of you, but how 'bout some
help for a first timer.
A little history: I needed some misc parts and decided to get a new air
filter, fuel filter, plug wires, and the "tool" to tune the carb. The
new
fuel filter, from Moss, is bigger in diameter than the one that was on
the
car. The old one was clogged with all kinds of "gunk" (technical term).
The car runs much better and actually has some power now, but it I think
it
is getting way too much gas. It backfires when I shut it off and when
idling it kind of sounds like, "glug, glug, glug" (another technical
term).
I have played with the idle speed screw, the fine idle screw and tried
use
the Moss tool as directed in the Haynes manual, but the description of
"then make the adjustment" really doesn't tell me what to do. I feel
like
I am just making adjustments and then seeing what happens. I have also
played with the throttle cable just cause it seems like the throttle was
not opening up all the way.
The automatic choke is not hooked up; kind of just dangeling there. I
have
the parts to hook it up, but am afraid that this adds another varible in
my
adjustment that I'm not sure about. It never seems to have any trouble
starting.
I have not gotten the carb rebuilt kit yet, but probably will in the
next
few weeks. I would like to know how to adjust it correctly when I get
it
back on the car. By the way, many of you will probably say adjust it by
taking it off and putting on a Weber downdraft, but that's really not an
option right now.
Thanks in advance for all the help. (over 5200 messages in my MG box in
3
months on the list and worth all the space they take up)
Regards,
Tom
77B
|