Hi John,
It appears that the 1972 cars had two (maybe more) different wiring
diagrams. #13 in the Workshop Manual, for the cars with sequential seat
belts, is the one that seems to fit my GT which was built in January '72.
The heavy brown wire is supposed to connect to terminal 2 on the light
switch. It brings electricity from connection #1 on the fuse block. The
blue wire from terminal #1 on the light switch runs to the high/low
flasher switch in the column, and leaves there as a blue (with red
tracer) that goes forward to the headlights. This does not appear to be a
fuzed circuit.
That a PO would have installed a fuze is good/bad, depending on one's
assessment of relative perils, losing light vs fire and meltdown. That
the fuze would get warm has to do with the amount of current flowing
through the fuze.
It would seem that if two headlamps @ 50 watts are on, then 100
watts/12 v = 8.5 amps should run through a 30A fuse OK.
However, please don't go cutting any wires on my advice! I am courious
to see what responses you receive from others who are far more certain of
things electrical than I am.
Bob
On Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:16:57 -0500 (EST) John Middlesworth
<jape@email.unc.edu> writes:
>My 72 B had some electrical work done in the past that I'm still
>trying to
>figure out. Specifically, underneath the steering column cowl I find
>that
>a blue wire has had an in-line fuse installed. If I remove the fuse
>the
>lights don't work. The fuse is rated at 30 amps and seems to heat up
>the
>longer the lights are on (I haven't yet had them on for more than 10
>minutes at a time). What should I do about this fuse? What type of
>problem was it trying to correct? What will keep it from heating up?
>
>John Middlesworth
>
>
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