There is a line voltage stabiliser in the circuit with the fuel gauge
that is supposed to regulate the voltage to 10v, a standard voltage for
the gauge. It's up on the firewall, a small metal box about 3/4 inch by
2 inches, with two green wires attached. Check the wiring diagram for
your car to get details on this. The thing must be horizontal, the book
says, and there is a test that you can run to check its voltage.
On the gauge, there is a tiny adjustment screw/bolt. One of the
listers was kind enough to write about this a month or so back, and if
you need the info I will look to see where I printed and filed it.
Essentially, though, if you have the 10v (and the book says to allow at
least two minutes for the voltage to stabilise) and a full tank of fuel,
you can adjust the gauge to "full", and there is another adjustment, on
the stabiliser, that will allow you to adjust the voltage down to get the
lower readings.
I have yet to do this, but it looks easy enough on my '72 GT, except
that the adjusters are all beat up and I haven't wanted to fight with
them.
Bob
On Mon, 10 Nov 1997 00:58:00 +0100 "Alberto Manganini" <albertom@tin.it>
writes:
>My fuel gauge reads full for at least 150 miles after the refuelling.
>Before draining the fuel tank and see if the sender is blocked, I
>checked
>the gaude with a variable psu, and noted that the gauge points full
>with a
>voltage in input from 9V upwards, while I thought it should read full
>with
>12V. Is it correct as it is now? Any way to adjust it?
>Thanks in advance
>
>
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