<S>
Dan,
Very nice summary.
I'd add that you need to make sure you have a good ground connection as well.
Check the ground cable from the ( - ) pole of the battery to the car body - in
fact remove and clean all connections here with a good stiff wire brush.
I once replaced the starter on my C only to eventually realize that the
starter was fine but the battery ground was poor (Good example of thick headed
outright blind stupidity we lbc lovers seem to exhibit on occasion!!!).
Dr. Doug
A bunch of MGs exploring alternative fuels in my garage (read as: they're
drinking alcohol again)!
<US>
Wiz:
Maybe the following step-by-step troubleshooting procedure will be helpful.
1) Turn off the ignition key, and put the transmission in neutral.
2) Locate the starting relay. It is on the side of the fender, on the
passenger side of the engine compartment. It will have four wires attached to
it: Black, Brown, White with red stripe, and White with Brown stripe. The
Brown wire is hot at all times, key on or off, and does not have a fuse. This
is true of ALL Brown wires in your car.
3) Without removing any wires from the relay, use a short piece of wire, 18
Ga or larger, and jumper between the Brown wire and the White/Red wire. Touch
the wire to the terminals just below the wire connectors. If the starter
works when you do this, there is either a bad connection in the W/R wire
between the key switch and the relay, or the key switch is bad. If the
starter does not work when you do this, go on to step 4). If it does work, go
to step 6).
4) jumper from the Brown wire to the Brown/White wire. If the starter works,
the relay is bad. If not, go on to step 5)
5) At the starter, you will find the other end of the Brown/White wire, and
the cable from the battery. Jumper from the battery lead to the Brown/White
wire terminal. It doesn't matter if the Brown/White wire is still connected
or not. If nothing happens, you have a bad solenoid. If you hear a loud,
solid, clunk, but the motor doesn't spin, the solenoid is good, but the motor
is bad.
6) If the starter worked when you performed step No. 3), use a multi-meter or
a test light to check the terminal on the back of the key switch where the
White/Red wire is attached, with the key to the start position. If you have
voltage present when you do this, the switch is good, but you have a break in
the wire (you are getting voltage TO the switch or the car wouldn't run).
Follow the wire from the switch to the relay, cleaning and checking each
connector till you find the problem. Check for voltage (with the key in the
start position) on each side of all connectors and at each end of the wire
between connectors. Sooner or later, you will find where you have voltage on
one side but not the other - the problem is between these two points.
Hope this helps. If you have other questions, please let me know.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
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