I was surprised how corroded the ground strap was on my MGA. This leads
from the body to the frame.
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*******This should have been "This leads from the BATTERY to the
frame."**************
Note that this is very difficult to see. You must remove it to see it. If
it is making a bad contact then your battery will appear rather worthless.
Remove this cable and wire brush the connection that attaches to the frame.
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----------------
The wire appeared to be about 6-8 months old
but the end at the car was badly corroded. I was also surprised to see how
corroded and consequently making a bad contact were the wires going to the
voltage regulator and the fuse holder; both on the firewall. You might
check these in that if there's a bad contact, it makes a big difference.
Good luck-
>>
>>> >As some of you may recall, my previous exploits have gone like
>>this:
>>> >everything works okay (runs rich) but no top and I'm reluctant to
>>take
>>> >it
>>> >to a garage where it may have to sit out so: put on new top -> no
>>> >clutch
>>> >right where she sits in the driveway -> replace cluth hose and
>>bleed
>>> >everything -> brakes locked up -> bleed some more -> no turn
>>signals
>>> >or
>>> >brake lights -> my current problem. I unhooked the green wires
>>(it's
>>> >a
>>> >1600) from the fuse box and hooked them to the hot white wire one
>>at a
>>> >time and labeled them... gas guage (ok), turn signals (ok), brake
>>> >lights
>>> >(too bright out to tell), and wipers (ok). Hook green wires back
>>up
>>> >and
>>> >only the wipers work. Whats worse is I pull the starter cable and
>>> >nothing
>>> >but a faint hiss from the rear (battery?)!
>>> Hi Tom,
>>> I can't speak to the instruments in particular, but with the
>>symptom you
>>> describe of the starter, my first thought is that the battery
>>terminals
>>> are corroded, and the connnections are poor. That would explain the
>>hiss.
>>> Use a "battery post brush" to clean, then coat with grease or
>>vaseline
>>> and reassemble.
>>>
>>The terminals ARE clean, you could eat of from them! Other stuff
>>works,
>>so I'm wondering if I could have shorted out/repolarixed the coil or
>>the
>>generator.
>
>Tom,
> The coil won't be affected by anything you have done unless you have
>changed the polarity of then battery/car connections. If you did that, to
>set it up as Negative Earth, all you need to do is to swap the two wires
>to the coil.
> Starters run OK with either polarity, so nothing will affect it,
>assuming it was OK to begin with.
> Have you checked the connection of the large wire from the battery to
>the starter? IF that connection is poor, again the starter won't get good
>power, and, I think, a #12 or #10 comes from that post up to power the
>rest of the electrical system at the fuse panel. (I don't know A's at
>all, so just stabbing at likely targets here)
>
>>> Now what do I do? Thomas,
>>> >you've really done it this time! Seriosly, all I did was unhook
>>those
>>> >wires, strip them back a little, and hook them back up. BTW, I
>>pulled
>>> >the
>>> >fuse to see but no difference in the starting. I've got the
>>charger
>>> >on it
>>> >now. Help, PLEASE! I really want to drive this thing at least
>>once.
>>> >
>>> >Also, while it's sitting in the driveway with the fuel pump
>>clicking
>>> >away,
>>> >fuel is dripping out the overflow on the front float bowl. The
>>> >clearance
>>> >is 7/16" and it moves freely, what could it be?
>>> Sounds as though the float or the needle has stuck, probably from
>>> dried,hardened gas due to inactivity. Try gentle rapping on the
>>bowl
>>> with the handle of a screwdriver. If that doesn't work, just undo
>>the
>>> center bolt, lift off the top of the float bowl, and jiggle the
>>needle
>>> with your finger to loosen it. Reassemble. Remember the gasket. >
>>
>>I should mention, this is the carb thar was running rich, but it never
>>leaked out the overflow until I opened it up to check the float level.
>> I
>>can't remember If I adjusted the lvel or not.
> If it's still overflowing after you rap it and open it up, chances are
>that the valve is worn. Might as well use the 3/8 or 7/16 rod to adjust
>the float while your're at it. One way is to blow down the supply line
>toward the float bowl while you test it with the bar. An air leak will
>hiss a little.
>Bob
>
>>
>>Thanks for listening,
>>
>>Tom
>>
>>> Bob Howard
>>>
>>> >Thanks for listening,
>>> >
>>> >Tom, '60 MGA 1600
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Don Mathis,Ph.D.
donmathis@lucent.com
'61 MGA
'37 Derby Bentley (B190KT)
Don Mathis,Ph.D.
donmathis@lucent.com
'61 MGA
'37 Derby Bentley (B190KT)
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