On Wed, 20 Aug 1997 10:31:02 -0400 (EDT) tallen <tallen@csc.sctboces.org>
writes:
>
>
>On Wed, 20 Aug 1997, ROBERT G. HOWARD wrote:
>
>>
>> On Tue, 19 Aug 1997 16:33:05 -0400 (EDT) tallen
><tallen@csc.sctboces.org>
>> writes:
>
>> >As some of you may recall, my previous exploits have gone like
>this:
>> >everything works okay (runs rich) but no top and I'm reluctant to
>take
>> >it
>> >to a garage where it may have to sit out so: put on new top -> no
>> >clutch
>> >right where she sits in the driveway -> replace cluth hose and
>bleed
>> >everything -> brakes locked up -> bleed some more -> no turn
>signals
>> >or
>> >brake lights -> my current problem. I unhooked the green wires
>(it's
>> >a
>> >1600) from the fuse box and hooked them to the hot white wire one
>at a
>> >time and labeled them... gas guage (ok), turn signals (ok), brake
>> >lights
>> >(too bright out to tell), and wipers (ok). Hook green wires back
>up
>> >and
>> >only the wipers work. Whats worse is I pull the starter cable and
>> >nothing
>> >but a faint hiss from the rear (battery?)!
>> Hi Tom,
>> I can't speak to the instruments in particular, but with the
>symptom you
>> describe of the starter, my first thought is that the battery
>terminals
>> are corroded, and the connnections are poor. That would explain the
>hiss.
>> Use a "battery post brush" to clean, then coat with grease or
>vaseline
>> and reassemble.
>>
>The terminals ARE clean, you could eat of from them! Other stuff
>works,
>so I'm wondering if I could have shorted out/repolarixed the coil or
>the
>generator.
Tom,
The coil won't be affected by anything you have done unless you have
changed the polarity of then battery/car connections. If you did that, to
set it up as Negative Earth, all you need to do is to swap the two wires
to the coil.
Starters run OK with either polarity, so nothing will affect it,
assuming it was OK to begin with.
Have you checked the connection of the large wire from the battery to
the starter? IF that connection is poor, again the starter won't get good
power, and, I think, a #12 or #10 comes from that post up to power the
rest of the electrical system at the fuse panel. (I don't know A's at
all, so just stabbing at likely targets here)
>> Now what do I do? Thomas,
>> >you've really done it this time! Seriosly, all I did was unhook
>those
>> >wires, strip them back a little, and hook them back up. BTW, I
>pulled
>> >the
>> >fuse to see but no difference in the starting. I've got the
>charger
>> >on it
>> >now. Help, PLEASE! I really want to drive this thing at least
>once.
>> >
>> >Also, while it's sitting in the driveway with the fuel pump
>clicking
>> >away,
>> >fuel is dripping out the overflow on the front float bowl. The
>> >clearance
>> >is 7/16" and it moves freely, what could it be?
>> Sounds as though the float or the needle has stuck, probably from
>> dried,hardened gas due to inactivity. Try gentle rapping on the
>bowl
>> with the handle of a screwdriver. If that doesn't work, just undo
>the
>> center bolt, lift off the top of the float bowl, and jiggle the
>needle
>> with your finger to loosen it. Reassemble. Remember the gasket. >
>
>I should mention, this is the carb thar was running rich, but it never
>leaked out the overflow until I opened it up to check the float level.
> I
>can't remember If I adjusted the lvel or not.
If it's still overflowing after you rap it and open it up, chances are
that the valve is worn. Might as well use the 3/8 or 7/16 rod to adjust
the float while your're at it. One way is to blow down the supply line
toward the float bowl while you test it with the bar. An air leak will
hiss a little.
Bob
>
>Thanks for listening,
>
>Tom
>
>> Bob Howard
>>
>> >Thanks for listening,
>> >
>> >Tom, '60 MGA 1600
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
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