Hi All!!
Just a note to anyone posting/replying to me, I've lost my gateway for
the summer (maybe), and had to Telnet to my E-mail from GEnie.
IF I can figure out some rather arcane Unix commands, and be granted
access, I should be back next week.
WOW!! I've been gone since 3 July, and there are 1,392 messages in my
account, the balance of them being from this group.
The '56 MGA made it to the "Ralley in the Valley", not entirely
finished, but highway useable anyways. The 4 syncro O/D tranny was a
tight fit, and we ended up cutting open the pass. side tranny cover. I
had to make a 1" shim between the rear end flange, and the driveshaft
yoke. We used the fog light switch on the dash for the O/D on/off
switch. The "A" master cylinder matched the "B" disk brakes perfectly,
and the "B" rear tranny crossmember fit the "A" frame rail after the
rail was cut. The 18V engine fit, with the "A" thermostat housing to
couple up the "A" rad. We drilled out the 18V temp. hole to accept the
"A" guage bulb, and adapted the "A" electronics to a Datsun alternator
so we could have a solid charging system.
The "A" exhaust manifold fit the 18V block and cleared the steering
shaft, but we had to make shims to build up the 18V intake manifold
mounting bosses to match the "A" exhaust flanges. We wanted to keep the
HIF carbs with the 18V engine. We have to install a charcoal filter and
plumb the tappet cover vent through to it to get a proper idle (VERY
high hydro-carbons at idle without it).
WE couldn't score a decent set of 15" tyres in time, so we installed a
set of TR 250 or 6 rims and went to a set of big fat Michelins (I think
the rim width is 6"). Because the offset was the same, no problems
clearing the suspension, just a slight rub on the pass. rear fender
We also installed the "A"'s crankshaft fitting to enable the 18V engine
to be hand cranked (for old times sakes).
TTUL8r, Kirk Cowen (who gets to drive the "A" to work this weekend)y
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