Bob,
The Workshop Manual gives settings for the dampers, when removed from
the car and tested on the work. Range of motion is 35 degrees each side
of centerline, for both front and rear.
Front--Rebound stroke setting--20 degrees per second at 400 lb/in
torque at a temperature of 18 C or 65 Fahrenheit. (weight applied at end
of 8 inch arm = 50lbs)
Compression setting--20 degrees per second at 200 lb/in. (weight
applied at end of 8 inch arm = 25lbs)
Rear-rebound stroke setting--20 degrees per second at 400 lb/in
torque(weight applied at end of 6 inch arm = 66lb 11 0z.)
Compression stroke setting-20 degrees per sec at 250 lb/in. (weight
applied at end of 6 inch arm = 41 lb, 11 oz.
It appears to me that they both rebound equally, but that the fronts
are a little softer in compression.
To check the fluid level, just clean around the opening with a wire
brush--get it super clean-- then remove the big top nut (girling) or the
small filler plug (armstrong) and fillerup to overflowing. If it takes
more than a couple of tablespoons, push the bumper up and down to remove
any entrapped air. That's all there is to it.
Bob
On Thu, 17 Jul 1997 23:18:01 -0600 (MDT) rdonahue@holli.com (Robert J.
Donahue) writes:
>As long as we have a thread going on about shock oil, I have a
>question.
>When I started my TD restoration I purchased all new shocks, as the
>old ones
>where shot. I notice that the rear shocks seem to be much "stiffer"
>than the
>fronts. Is this normal? I feel like I'm getting a good firm ride on
>the
>road, but there
>is definitly more bounce in the front than the rear when I push down
>on the
>bumpers.
>
>BTW, how do you check the shock oil level? Can it be done without
>removing
>the unit? (I assume that new shocks are shipped full of oil. Right?)
>
>Bob Donahue, Still Stuck in the '50s
>rdonahue@holli.com
>52 MG-TD #17639 under DIY restoration, NEMGTR #11470
>71 MGB still in shop, 19 months and counting
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