-------------< COMMENTS BY Monadnoc >--------------
I would like to 2nd the comments by Kirk on the 1/4" die grinder...we
have dozens of 'em in the welding shop and the best bet is to make sure
you can keep the tool running at optimum cutting speed for best results.
Also you will only make this next mistake once...NEVER brush you bare
hand across a part that you have just cut or ground with a carbide tip.
The resulting mass of microscopic slivers in your hand will result in
your becoming and automotive restoring porcupine. 2 hours with a
magnifying glass and tweezers will restore some semblance of sanity, but
it is an experience best to avoid in the 1st place.
Wally / Templeton MA
71 MGB / in restoration
71 MGB / organ donor (just arrived today with a running engine!!)
----------< END OF COMMENTS BY Monadnoc >----------
Hi Greg Baker!!
On Sat, 28 Jun 1997, Baker, G. wrote:
> I'm GOING TO port and polish my own heads. I might even reshape a combustion
What engine are you working on?? Vizard's dyno testing has shown that
polishing an "A"series head is counterproductive (waste of time). You
have to assume that the same thing goes for the "B" series head; but???
> chamber if I can find the appropriate info. I have got the Head Modification
> book by Vizard, How to Powertune the B by Vizard(maybe) and the Blueprinting
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Is this book any good?? Does he publish his dyno tests, like for the
"A" series engines?? Or is this the book by Burgess (is it any good?)?
> more......theoretical or practicle. I'm really pumped about learning this
> stuff.
Yes, me too. I haven't read a post from anyone who's done the work
themselves yet. I'm going to start with the SU intake modifications
that Vizard recommends for the "A" series engines, because the "B"
series looks like the same design.
> Questions: > 1. Any other books out there that I can devour?
I've seen references to Burgess's book, and to "John Twist's" articles,
but I haven't seen any quotes from either source, so I don't know...
> 2. What kind of grinder\polisher should I look into?
We've started using an 1/4" drive air grinder in the shop, and I can say
that whatever you buy, it MUST have the power to keep the cutting bit
turning at the design rpm of the bit. The only problem I've had is
cutting rectangular slots in 1/8" steel conveyor frames, the carbide
cutter showers me with small, sharp steel cuttings (splinters) that end
up in my skin unless I wear gloves. I lube the grinder, and then hit it
with 110 lbs of air, and let it wind up. I use a LIGHT touch to keep
the bit cutting, and find that it's easier to control the cut; if I lean
into it, the thing wanders all over the place, and I really don't cut
any faster.
> I would REALLY appreciate responses to both questions from anybody with
> experience
See above.
TTUL8r, Kirk Cowen (who also has to wear a face shield when cutting
with this thing... it sure beats a file though)
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