Jason_Wood@inc.com wrote:
>
> Well, I've owned this '77 MGB for all of a week now.
>
Congradulations
> 2) With red insulation remaining near the switch, does that mean that
> the switch is not the culprit? I have had the switch apart and it
> doesn't seem damaged (also, is there a diagram of how these go back
> together available?) (I have it in this order: Base box (with copper
> nibs where wires connect on outside), copper plate, spring, white
> plastic piece, top box (with three way toggle switch). Is this right?
> Also, in my haste, I unhooked the wires--which hooks where? And which
> way does the base go (two connectors on top, one on the bottom, or
> vice versa)?
Switch is probably OK. Brown is hot all the time and is UNFUSED so
disconnect battery before doing anything. Wires for parking lights are
fused, but fuses are after the switch (pretty useless).
Get a Haynes manual (these have wiring diagrams). The original setup is
weak and is improperly fused.
What I've done is add two relays (one for hig beams one for low beams),
and an additional fuse box.
The new fuse box has three 15 amp fuses. The hot side of all three
fuses in the auxiliary box should be supplied with a short wire (8 or 10
gauge) from the unfused side of the original box (don't have the diagram
in front so I can't recall the color or location on the original box).
On the outlet side of the first fuse connect the the brown wire from the
light switch (this originates at the original fuse box from the side
that is always hot). This will protect the light switch and wiring
from shorts. Add wires connecting the outlets from the other two fuses
to the supply for two light relays (available from NAPA or Radio
Shack). The outlet from the first relay should be wired to the low beam
headlights, and the outlet from the other relay should be wired to the
high beam headlights. The original supply for the low and high beams
(where you disconnected the headlight wires to attach the feed from the
relays) are connected to the control lines of the respective relays. In
this way you will be switching low current in the light switch. The
original supply for the low/high beams will now control the relays for
the low/high beams. In addition all wires going the the steering column
are now fused.
>
> 3) What gauge wire should I get to replace bad sections? (I assume
> this is better than taping). Also, are solderless connectors good
> enough (I tape over them to be on the safe side)?
10 gauge should be sufficient
>
> 4) Does the headlight switch have a fuse in the line somewhere that I
> should look for?
No, see above.
>
> 5) Where can I get a good wiring diagram? (Anyone want to fax one?)
Haynes manual.
>
> 6) How does one reconnect to the hard plastic white connectors (three
> wires in, three wires out)? Are they reusable or do I need new ones?
>
Go slow and think before cutting/splicing and double check before
reconnecting the battery.
Good luck
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