>Hi Kathy Johnson!!
>
>On Sat, 31 May 1997, Johnson wrote:
>
>> has now torn the hell out of the old seal and I'm not sure what to do.
Then, at 03:47 AM 6/2/97 -0700, Kirk Cowen wrote:
>When the new seal is installed, it MUST go in square with the bore.
>Pounding in one side, and then the other, usually damages the integrity
>of the seal and surrounding parts; as your husband goes berserk trying
>to prevent the seal from popping one side out as he hits the other side.
>
>Use a piece of pipe, or a large socket, to drive the seal in to place.
>Lubricate the inner surface of the seal before installing; I usually use
>whatever lubricant is in the part needing the seal. A two, or three
>pound hammer works best. Usually, a carpenter's claw hammer is too
>light to do the job without having to "pound" exessively.
>
>Have fun, 'cause that's what it's all about!!
===Reply===
You can also buy a tool called a "seal driver", which consists of a sturdy
rod, threaded at one end, and several discs of different diameter, which
screw on to the threaded end. You used the disk to drive the seal into
place squarely by hammering on the rod. Not too expensive, and you get
perfectly-seated and perfectly-square seals every time. This works on wheel
bearing seals, transmission seals, differential front pinion seals, timing
case seals, etc. etc. etc. If you have a friend or relative in the
mechanic-ing business, or are real friendly with a garage, you might be able
to borrow theirs.
Mark Moburg
markmoburg@mindspring.com
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