>nyclewit@nyhp03.serigate.philips.com wrote:
>>
>> When you start the engine up first take the HT leads off so it doesn't
>> start running as there will not be any oil pressure yet: result
>> your mains and other bearings will wear instantaniously !
>
>
>
>I don't understand, how can you start the engine with the ht leads off?
>How can you build oil pressure with the engine not running? Are you
>recommending that you first turn the engine over several times without
>starting the car? Does that actually build up oil pressure?
>
>Also, I've been starting my car weekly here in New Jersey but since this
>past week its been down to 0 to 15 degrees F, I decided to defer startup
>until the temperature gets back up to the high 20s to 40s. Was that a
>wise decision?
>
>Siegfried Doerrer
>Series V
Hellow Siegfried and List:
I have been mute about this thread but feel I must make a contribution at
this point. While starting a car in storage has been advocated by some, I
believe that the best treatment - particularly if the car is only in
storage for a few months - is to leave it alone.
Here in Alberta we must store our cars for 6 months of winter. Due to the
large number of cars I have, some of them don't get used every year. I
prepare them all the same way - I shut off the ignition after they are
parked and disconnect the non-ground battery cable. When I go to restart
them I reconnect the battery turn on the ignition and start them. If they
have been sitting a long time I will crank them over with ignition
disabled. This will build oil pressure if the engine is in decent repair.
I will then connect ignition and start them up. Note that they sometimes
will need priming with fuel or a battery boost to get them going.
Why this apparent disregard for the feelings of my machines?
1. Starting a car regularly after a period of rest causes cylinder wall
wear. I don't believe it will hurt bearings as they are oil-soaked and
likely to remain that way.
2. Starting a car from cold requires rich mixtures which contribute to oil
contamination. Unless the storage facility can be well-ventilated it is
sometimes difficult to let the vehicle warm up sufficiently.
3. Letting a car run at idle speeds is not conducive to effective warm up
and does nothing for the other parts of the vehicle - some of which are at
least as expensive as the engine to maintain and repair. Note that getting
in and out of a vehicle at very cold temperatures can cause
upholstery/interior damage.
4. Starting a cold vehicle in a cold environment creates enormous amounts
of water vapor which settles in the exhaust system. The resulting rust
will destroy this system in short order. I have several cars with exhaust
systems which are 20 and more years old. They are still in good repair
because I never start my cars unless they are driven at least 45 minutes.
5. I find that the brakes are the single leading source of aggravation
after extended storage - not the engine. It would be far better to work
out a schedule of brake pedal pressing rather than engine starting. It is
because of brake problems that I have gradually been converting to silicone
brake fluid. I have some vehicles which have been using it for up to 15
years with no problems.
NOTE THAT I DON'T WANT TO REPEAT AN OLD BRAKE FLUID THREAD.
Each of us must decide what is best for us. In Alberta, winters are long
and cold with few occasions of great temperature change - except in the
south. Our climate is very dry so that humidity is not a problem. Engines
rarely seize even under negligent conditions. I belive, hoever, that more
harm than good will come from regular, non-use, starting of engines.
John McEwen
Been there, done that.
|