From: drded@ix.netcom.com (David Deutsch)
>> My question is exactly what do I bring to the machine shop and
exactly what should I look for >> them to do for me and do me out
of $$$.
Well, it depends !!!!. It depends on your own competence level and it
depends on what "type" of engine rebuild you are going for.
In my opinion there are 4 different types of engine rebuilds, each
getting progressively most expensive.
Type 1 : quick freshen up -
Valves relapped
New pistons rings installed
New rod bearings
New main bearings
This is done on a worn engine just prior to selling it and touting it as
a "full rebuild"
Advantages : very cheap
Disadvantages : won't last very long !!!!
Type 2 : rebuild for the uninspired -
Cylinder head stripped and visual inspection for cracks
New seats inserted
Any worn stems/guides replaced
Head checked for straightens and possibly skimmed true
Block completely disassembled, inspected and cleaned
Crank check for wear and possibly recutting of bearing surfaces (new
bearings installed)
Crankshaft endfloat checked
Rods checked for straightness and length (new bearings installed)
Bores checked for wear and possible re-bore, new pistons may be needed
Flywheel reskimmed
Advantages : still fairly cheap rebuild, should produce and "normal"
daily driver engine.
Disadvantages : don't expect any performance increases or for the engine
to last more than 50K miles
Type 3 - Strong and stout rebuild
Cylinder head stripped
Head hot tanked and magnafluxed
Head checked for true and skimmed
New valve guides installed
New seats installed
Valve check and possibly reused
New/rebuilt rocker shaft installed
New Valve springs installed
Head porting (your choice)
Block disassembled, checked and cleaned
Check for trueness of crank center line to top of block (re-skim as
necessary)
Check main bearing for ovalness
Line bore the cylinders (relative to crank-center line)
Crank magnafluxd and checked for straightness
Possible recutting of bearing surfaces
Balance crank, rods and flywheel/clutch assembly
Rods checked for equal length
Rods checked for straightness
Rods balanced against each other
Rod bearing surfaces check for ovalness
New pistons and pistons rings
Pistons balanced
Pistons checked for equal height at to of stoke
Compression ratio calculated and combustion chambers cc'd
New camshaft/bearings
Camshaft timed to manufacturers specs
New timing chain
New timing gears
etc etc
Advantages : One hell of a strong engine, should have gobs of torque, rev
like crazy, be perfectly smooth and last a lifetime
Disadvantages : high cost of parts, even higher costs of machine shop
work
Type 4 : The killer engine
Same as type 3 rebuild, except multiply the cost by 3. Have you see the
price of Cosworth pistons or ARP main and rod bolts !!!!!!!
Now to answer David's specific questions:
Any machine shop will do as much or as little work as you want them to
do. If you want the machine shop to just do the checking, magnalfluxing
and rebore/recutting work then that should be fine. You could assemble
the engine yourself.
On the other hand you could take the complete engine to the machine shop
and ask them to rebuild and re-assemble the engine for you.
I have done both and never had a problem with the machine shop - the only
advice I could give you is to listen to the machinist - if they recommend
a certain procedure then follow their advice.
One caveat - an engine assembled by the machine shop usually has some
kind of warranty again failure.
>> piston and bearing sizes purchased upon shop recommendation after
the material as been removed in the boring, grinding and resurfacing?
I have done it both ways. I have bought my own pistons/bearings etc and
then asked the machine shop to re-bore/re-cut according the supplied
parts. I have also had it the other way round, where the machine shop has
purchased the parts used those. I prefer to buy the parts myself unless
the machine shop specifically does NOT recommend the use of specific
parts.
> Aside from the head crank and connecting rods what other parts should
be Magnafluxed (one of my favorite words)?
THE CRANK - MGB cranks do and will crack. Have the crank magnafluxed and
checked for straightness. If the bearing surfaces need to be re-cut - DO
NOT cut into the shoulder on the crank and ask the machine shop to keep
a generous radius between the bearing surface and the side wall of the
crank - this is usually where they crack. If funds allow get the crank
shot-peened.
>Were do they stop and I begin? -
This is something you want to discuss with the machine shop.
gerry
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