Cat1cat@aol.com wrote:
> in my previous rambling i mentioned relays, a wise gentleman put
> forth ther idea that the trouble with stop light switches and with plastic
> brake fluid
> may be from products of the arcing within the switch causing greif at
> the electrical contacts....... best theory i've heard so far.
>
> so if a relay that requires a minute amount of current were the only
> item in the circuit , less current, less arcing, less junk produced,
> better performance from the switch.
>
> rocky
Hi Rocky
I had the same problem with my Sprite. About three years ago I switched
to silicone brake fluid. After the switch to silicone fluid my brake
light switch (hydraulic) would require more and more pedal pressure
before the brake lights would go on. Soon the lights wouldn’t go on at
all. I replaced the switch, and the new one lasted about a month, and
quit working. I put three more switches in the car, in the next five
months. Each switch was from a different source(Hoping one might be
better). I finally took one of the old switches apart, and the contacts
were burned. I then checked my brake light circuit to make sure it
wasn’t drawing too many amps, and it was within specs. I then ran the
brake light circuit through a relay, and then the brake light switches
would last six to eight months. When I did a complete restoration on my
car this year, I switched back to Castrol GT LMA brake fluid and I’ve
had no more brake switch problems, even without the relay in the system.
I’ve heard rumors that the fumes from silicone brake fluid can get
inside the brake switch and cause this problem. All I know is that since
I went back to Castrol GT LMA fluid the problem is gone.
John Nelson
1964 A-H Sprite MK III
http://members.aol.com/psychodad7
"The nice thing about British car is,
you don't need them, they need YOU."
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