Since I have owned LBCs for over 20 years, I would have a hard time
remembering all my stupid mistakes during that time. One, though,
stands out in my mind.
Before I sold my soul for my factory GT V-8, I put most of my
energies into a 1962 MGA 1600 MkII roadster. When it came time for
the engine and tranny rebuild, I spent over 6 months collecting parts
for the project. I probably spent at least a week cleaning and
preparing the block for the new parts, chamfering rough edges, new
brass plugs, etc. All this after the usual machine shop hot tank,
line bore, and honing.
When it came time for the reassembly, I turned on the classical music
station and centered myself prior to picking up the first parts, the
main bearing cap studs. I carefully double nutted these studs and
torqued them into the block. Finally, I got to the main bearing and
crankshaft installation stage. I plastigaged each bearing, so far so
good. But then I noticed how stiff the crank was to turn after all
the bearings were torqued. After several iterations of loosen the
bearing caps, spin the crank, tighten the caps, feel it bind, grumble
and swear, etc., I finally pulled the crank and bearing shells out.
It was then that I noticed the hairline cracks extending from the
base of the cap studs out to the bearing saddle.
A small voice echoed in my cranium..."you screwed up, didn't you"??
Memories of old auto mechanics texts flashed through my muddled
brain, NEVER torque studs into a casting!!! Install only finger tight
or snug!!!
Well, after offering up my carefully prepared block as a sacrifice to
MOWOG and the Sacramento County Landfill, and waiting another 6
months to find and prepare another block (1622 blocks are not exactly
available down at the local Pep Boys), I learned my lesson. Never
again will I torque a stud into a casting.
Paul (occasional lapses) Kile
Paul D. Kile
kile_paul@aphub.aerojetpd.com
(916) 355-5162
GenCorp Aerojet
POB 13222
Dept 5784 Building 20019
Sacramento, California 95813-6000
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